Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

King spring low.

front 3.2kg/mm

rear 2.9kg/mm

Why are u running r33 springs in the rear when s13 coilovers fit right in with very little trubble.

s13 coilovers also fit in the front with some moderfercation (i.e diffrent parts)

also allows you to run r33 gts-t front brakes.

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...sion_Conversion

Yeah I had the same thought you did and brought some s13 hubs and arms then worked out it was to much to spend for very litle gain.

The r33 struts in the back is because a mate had 33 struts sitting there out of a half cut and just decided to give it a go and it worked well and when he stripped the car I grabed the whole diff, struts and arms it off him for my car for $150 because i wanted the 3.7 ratio and another set of arms to put my new bushes in

and as for the front end it has white line springs, kyb shocks r34 gtt brakes so I cant see the point in spending all the money to go to s13 front end. ill profer to spend that money on swaybars

  • 1 month later...
Yeah I had the same thought you did and brought some s13 hubs and arms then worked out it was to much to spend for very litle gain.

The r33 struts in the back is because a mate had 33 struts sitting there out of a half cut and just decided to give it a go and it worked well and when he stripped the car I grabed the whole diff, struts and arms it off him for my car for $150 because i wanted the 3.7 ratio and another set of arms to put my new bushes in

and as for the front end it has white line springs, kyb shocks r34 gtt brakes so I cant see the point in spending all the money to go to s13 front end. ill profer to spend that money on swaybars

Ah your front end is very simier to my old front end but i used r33 gtst brakes and had k-mac adj camber caster top hats. yep get some bigger sway bars, strut brace, cusco brake master cyl brace ($110 from powerplayimports under r31 house) and nolerthane bushes and it will handle realy good

can you shed some light on yuor rear end i.e pics im a bit confused

Ah your front end is very simier to my old front end but i used r33 gtst brakes and had k-mac adj camber caster top hats. yep get some bigger sway bars, strut brace, cusco brake master cyl brace ($110 from powerplayimports under r31 house) and nolerthane bushes and it will handle realy good

can you shed some light on yuor rear end i.e pics im a bit confused

All the bushes are nolithain and yeah Im allready looking at swaybars, strut brace and the cylinder brace.

How hard were the camber tops to install?

As for the rear end well its a long story but a mate got bored and did it on his budget track build (I.e. under 4k build of pintara rb20det, ebay t3t4 turbo kit, r32 front brakes, weldy you get the idea) and it ended up in my car when the bushes went in just to see how it would go in my car

Im a bit hesedent to post photos due to looking a bit dodgy but the set up has done about 8k worth of driving, 4 track days and 3 drag meets with no signs of problems. tho there might be one in my build thread \/

Edited by lawler

Can you send the pics to [email protected] then.

as for the camber tops its pretty easy.

remove the front spring assymenbly fromt he car.

then atach sping clamps (they compress th springs)

compress the springs so the tension is take off the top hat.

then undo the nut in the center of the top hat and remove top hat.

install k-mac adj top hats re do nut release thenions on springs and reinstall

get wheel aliment

that easy

then to adj jack car up losen the 3 nusts and move the spring around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...