Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale:

HR31 1986 Nissan Skyline.

Current engine is an R32 Silver top ECCS RB20DET with factory turbo. Engine currently has 90K on the clock

The half cut came with a MINES computer which is currently installed (No boost cut, no rev limit, and no speed limiter @ 180km/h

Turbosmart Mechanical Boost bleeder "T". Currently running 12psi

Car has been dyno'd at 133rwKW with fairly rich AF ratio's due to jap MINES tuning.

K&N pod filter with new R32 flow meter

Uses the factory R31 "side mount" intercooler.

R32 GTS-T gearbox

Exedy HD sports clutch

Autometer Boost Gauge mounted on steering column.

GoFastBits plumb back blow off valve

Recoed power steering rack

New ball joints, and castor rod bushes

4 x Bilstein shocks (with the big shaft), fronts have just recently been serviced by Quadrant and are in excellent condition

Viscous R200 LSD (getting a little tired, and probably ready for a 1.5 or 2 way Kaaz! :twisted: )

GTS-R BBS alloy Japanese wheels with Bridgestone GIII tyres

Factory 4WS is currently operational.

Air-conditioning has recently been serviced and re-gassed

EBC green stuff pads on the front, Bendix Ultimates on the rear.

Full 3" exhaust from the turbo back with CAT/resonator and stainless muffler. Sounds EXCELLENT (Ringwood performance exhaust)

6 x new spark plugs fitted

Water pump has been replaced, and the timing belt has been replaced with a GATES belt.

Has a Panasonic head unit with Panasonic 6" speakers in the front, and 6" in the rear. Also has two amps and one 10" Kenwood sub in the boot in it's own box. I've always been meaning to remove this to get more boot space, but never got around to it due to building the 1600!!!

Item Condition:

Excellent condition throughout.

Stone chips on the front of the bonnet.

Overall the car is in excellent condition and has been meticulously maintained. The car has been used as my daily driver and as I live in whoop whoop, I have cranked over a few k's in it.

I have serviced the car every 5000 with synthetic oil (Penrite 10W40), filters, plug gap check, AFM clean etc. etc. The alternate 5K, the car has been professionally serviced to fix anything that I didn't have time for as I was rebuilding the 1600.

There are only a few things to get the car RWC, and I will have these done very soon. (replace windscreen, get one of the dash lights working again, fix the recently recoed power steering rack leak - WARRANTY!!!, and loose cover of the steering wheel)

May consider selling without RWC, but really it's so close, and most of it is fairly straight forward.

Rego is August next year.

Currently insured with Shannons

Original white paint! (in very good condition except for the stone chips on the front of the bonnet)

I really don't want to sell as I really love driving this car and would loved to have turned it into a white GTS-R, but I'm thinking of getting a Stagea station wagon, and as the 1600 only has two seats, I can't have two 'coupes' damn it. :D

Price and price conditions:

$9500 with RWC

Extra Info:

I think the information above covers most things

Contact Details:

PM me on this site, or reply to this post.

PH: 9566 1686 during BH. PM me and I will give you my mobile number.

Location:

Car is located in Bayswater, but can be located in Sunbury if necessary.

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery:

Might arrange transport to another state

Pictures:

See below.

post-53216-1259621962_thumb.jpg

post-53216-1259622000_thumb.jpg

post-53216-1259622124_thumb.jpg

post-53216-1259622153_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298434-fs-hr31-nissan-skyline-vic/
Share on other sites

Steering rack has been fixed! Front wheel alignment is being done today.

Deposit from prospective buyer will be taken before the windscreen is replaced...

Steering wheel has been removed and is being re-glued and re-stitched. (road worthy item)

Final item is the windscreen...

I am interested in taking a deposit first before tackling this one, or might do it in the new year when everyone isn't so busy.

Offers without the RWC might be taken, but as stated previously it's so close, the extra $300 for a windscreen and fitment isn't going to be much of a discount. Although open to suggestions (and swaps + Cash for a stagea!)

  • 2 weeks later...

Alot of interest for swaps, but unfortunately nobody with a Stagea. I might consider a Mitsubishi VR4 Legnum with low kays and cash in your direction...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...