Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a 1.5 way mechanical LSD diff centre.

Not sure of what the brand is, i took a photo of some of the prints on the centre, if anyone does know can they please tell me.

I took it out of my R33 gtst as im selling the car and figured it would be worth more.

Centre seems to be in good condition, was a tiny bit noisy, had a slight wine at about 80-90kmh

This diff locks both wheels on and off acceleration, its pretty tight.

It has seen one track day at calder park that is it, apart from the odd slide on the streets.

any questions welcome

will post at byers expense

post-37613-1259748094_thumb.jpg post-37613-1259748496_thumb.jpg post-37613-1259748219_thumb.jpg post-37613-1259748747_thumb.jpg

has it got the standard ratio ?

how do you know its a 1.5 and not a 2way?

is there noise because it needs to be re shimed?

thanks.

Sorry for the late reply people. Im not 100% sure that its a 1.5 way however this is what i was told when i bought the car.

Im looking for $400 plus postage

cheers

Its a Nismo diff, (or a standard)

If you grab a photo of this section:

R200NISMOramps.jpg

Its its cut to a diamond shape (4 cuts) its a 2 way, if its just got 2 cuts and is kind of triangle shape then its a 1.5 way.

The one pictured in this post would be a 2 way as it would have 4 cuts, but the shadow covers the top 2 cuts.

Edited by JiN_MaN

I got an e-mail from Daniel, that's about it..

I asked if the standard shafts will fit, because usually Nismo diffs require Nismo shafts to fit. If the stock shafts don't fit I'm out :)

Unless is the last model of the Nismo diff's, Nismo Pro (I think thats what they called them) then your standard shafts will fit be no problem. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
×
×
  • Create New...