Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trying to get my RB20det gtst4 r32 to start this morning.

I have never got it running since I bought it.

There is supposed to be nothing wrong with it as far as I know although, we found there was no spark. So first we replaced the ignitor and that seems to have fixed our spark problem but car will still not start.

The car is not firing AT ALL.

Definitely getting fuel, we saw it squirt out the chassis rail lines.

Ecu is spitting code 13 and 43.

Just don't know where to go from here.

We will reset the ecu and see what happens

Please help :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298774-my-freaking-rb20det-wont-start/
Share on other sites

The fuel needs to come out of the injector, not out the chassis rail lines.

Are the injectors working? Can you hear them "ticking" while cranking?

Are you trying to start the engine with a healthy battery? The ECU needs something like 7V to stay "alive".

Do a compression test on the engine.

The meaning of the error codes. 13 = "Engine Temp sensor" - break or short circuit in the sensor system. 43 = "Throttle sensor system" - disconnection or short circuit in throttle sensor system. The errors are persistent, they exist for about 50 starts. So reset the ECU, then immediately check for errors.

First thing I would check are......

Do I have pressure in my fuel lines

Are my injectors getting signal

Is my CAS in the right spot

Is my fuel shit and old and needs replacing

Even if you had half decent fuel and the CAS was a little off it would start but it would run like crap. Does it try and fire at all or do you just keep turning and turning and getting nothing?

First thing I would check are......

Do I have pressure in my fuel lines

Are my injectors getting signal

Is my CAS in the right spot

Is my fuel shit and old and needs replacing

Even if you had half decent fuel and the CAS was a little off it would start but it would run like crap. Does it try and fire at all or do you just keep turning and turning and getting nothing?

Definitely have pressure in the fuel lines.

We listened to the injectors and we could hear them ticking.

We are going to try another CAS tomorrow but have inspected it already and seems ok.

Starting to think maybe something with the fuel system isn't right.

Basically just turns and turns till the cows come home and nothing exciting happens :)

tip.

unplug the ecu from the loom, and then put it back in but this time make sure the plug is sitting all the way into the ecu. screw the 10ml bolt a few times and press both sides of the plug and keep doing this untill its in correctly.

If the injectors are ticking, then the CAS is working (ECU gets a signal from the CAS then calculates when to fire the injectors).

Are the fuel lines on the right way? Also, pull an injector and watch the spray while you are cranking the engine (sit the injector in a glass jar or similar). Engine might well be flooded. Pull the spark plugs and dry them off. Also, try starting with WOT.

The errors you are getting will not prevent the engine from starting.

With the ignition on check for battery power to coils (whilst you are at it check AFM and CAS as well). If you have verified you aren't getting any spark I would focus on the ignition system. It is a process of elimination.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...