Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone! New to the forum. My searching has not payed off and I'm stuck. There are 2 lines (reddish color plastic) that run on top of my transition t words the front of the car and end between the bell housing and the drive shaft that runs to the front diff (more or less). The ends of the 2 lines are connected together with a bracket that has a mount point built on to it. The lines look like they run to the trans, but its just a guess as they run along the top drivers side of the trans and snake out of from view way up top. Any help would be great.

Thank you.

I can send a picture if need be but I do not know if you allow pics

Hello everyone! New to the forum. My searching has not payed off and I'm stuck. There are 2 lines (reddish color plastic) that run on top of my transition t words the front of the car and end between the bell housing and the drive shaft that runs to the front diff (more or less). The ends of the 2 lines are connected together with a bracket that has a mount point built on to it. The lines look like they run to the trans, but its just a guess as they run along the top drivers side of the trans and snake out of from view way up top. Any help would be great.

Thank you.

I can send a picture if need be but I do not know if you allow pics

*edit - your title was so long it didn't all show up

What did you want to know about the lines? They are gearbox breathers. They terminate at the bracket

And what has it all got to do with the R32 being "the easiest to work on"?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...