Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am still having problems with the front left wheel brake activating when cornering hard around right corners. As I mentioned before, it started after a wheel alignment but the front suspension was only checked and didn't need adjusting; only the rear was adjusted.

The VDC light flashes when the brake activates. The wheel doesn't skid during this but the brake comes on lightly from 1 to 3 times during the event. I has me stuffed as I thought the VDC only operates on the driving wheels; that's what makes me think it is a problem with the abs and why would it be affected if the front suspension was not touched!

Nissan service can't help as they have nothing to check VDC as the 350z doesn't have it so they say.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298980-problems-with-abs-or-vdc-activating/
Share on other sites

Not sure what the dealership is talking about, 350Z track-specs came with VDC standard, If it thinks you are understeering, the system will actuate brakes on the front outside wheel in an attempt to regain front-end grip.

Not sure what the dealership is talking about, 350Z track-specs came with VDC standard, If it thinks you are understeering, the system will actuate brakes on the front outside wheel in an attempt to regain front-end grip.

Thanks for that and will follow it up with the dealer as it seems that the dealers should have software to reset the VDC

I am still having problems with the front left wheel brake activating when cornering hard around right corners.

Sounds right, if the system thinks that you're understeering. It'll try and brake the inside front to pull you back into the corner.

I has me stuffed as I thought the VDC only operates on the driving wheels

The Traction Control System only works on the driven wheels.

The Vehicle Dynamic Control system works on all four brake calipers.

that's what makes me think it is a problem with the abs and why would it be affected if the front suspension was not touched!

ABS can only release brake pedal pressure. If your foot is not on the brake, the ABS could do anything it wants and nothing would happen at the caliper.

The TCS cuts power by closing the electronic throttle. The VDC can compress any of the 4 calipers independently, and does not require brake pedal inputs.

When you're "cornering hard and the inside front caliper grabs the rotor", are you on the brake? If not, its not a pure ABS issue.

Bear in mind that the TCS asnd VDC both rely on the ABS wheel sensors to tell their processors how fast each wheel is spinning. The VDC unit, aside from the ABS sensors, also has a yaw sensor to tell the processor how fast the body itself is turning.

If any sensor is sending erroneous data, it'll take erroneous actions.

If you drive in a straight line and just jump on the brakes, what happens? Does the ABS perform normally, or does your left side front caliper trigger ABS faster than the other wheels? If the car behaves normally when you're going straight, then I'd be more concerned about a yaw sensor or VDC processor issue.

Nissan service can't help as they have nothing to check VDC as the 350z doesn't have it so they say.

Take your car to a Nissan dealership that's populated with less retarded service technicians. If you're in an especially bad mood call up head office to complain about their gross lack of product knowledge.

The 350Z Track has always come with VDC. I've still got my brochure from back in 03, if you want to make a photocopy to shove up their arses.

Sounds right, if the system thinks that you're understeering. It'll try and brake the inside front to pull you back into the corner.

The Traction Control System only works on the driven wheels.

The Vehicle Dynamic Control system works on all four brake calipers.

ABS can only release brake pedal pressure. If your foot is not on the brake, the ABS could do anything it wants and nothing would happen at the caliper.

The TCS cuts power by closing the electronic throttle. The VDC can compress any of the 4 calipers independently, and does not require brake pedal inputs.

When you're "cornering hard and the inside front caliper grabs the rotor", are you on the brake? If not, its not a pure ABS issue.

Bear in mind that the TCS asnd VDC both rely on the ABS wheel sensors to tell their processors how fast each wheel is spinning. The VDC unit, aside from the ABS sensors, also has a yaw sensor to tell the processor how fast the body itself is turning.

If any sensor is sending erroneous data, it'll take erroneous actions.

If you drive in a straight line and just jump on the brakes, what happens? Does the ABS perform normally, or does your left side front caliper trigger ABS faster than the other wheels? If the car behaves normally when you're going straight, then I'd be more concerned about a yaw sensor or VDC processor issue.

Take your car to a Nissan dealership that's populated with less retarded service technicians. If you're in an especially bad mood call up head office to complain about their gross lack of product knowledge.

The 350Z Track has always come with VDC. I've still got my brochure from back in 03, if you want to make a photocopy to shove up their arses.

Thanks for the comprehensive answer - I really appreciate it and will try the Nissan dealer again and hopefully will talk to someone who has a brain!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...