Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

just wanted to say a huge thank you to you all for the information already given...... its amazing !!!

The second part of this is obviousely gearbox selection, I've often wondered why we had two feet, and have come to the conclusion its to race auto !!!!

I've seen some info about electronic controlled auto, is this for real? can you shift without taking your hands off the steering wheel?????

again, any advice info etc etc will be so appreciated.

best regards

nige

OK been mushing the gray matter up top and crunching some numbers around....... well SolidWorks has anyway.

I seem to arrive at a weight figure closer to 1800kg plus a bit more for safety, so my first estimates were a little off the mark.... oooooppppsssss !!!!!

A bit releived to say the least, but on the bright side the overall weight will be better to drive and handle, and also pwr/wgt ratio will be more acceptable....

thanks again for all your advice.....

nige :P

im with bubba, RB2634 with big huffer GT40 or HKS T51

get the head from here or other site, and see spoolimports.com or ripsracing.com both big RB30 ppl obviously stroked out to rips RB33 or spool for RB34

gearbox for an auto get a holden VL auto and pimp it out or as someone said an R34 box and pimp it out

Dan

VL commodore auto is actually a good idea.. i remember reading an article i think it was perth street car about the Jatco trans rebuild. They reckon up to like 1000hp it can handle.

Yeah and heaps of people can build the Jatco boxes nice and strong.

Yak, the auto's in R34's (and in my Stagea, except it's 4WD) are tiptronic and have buttons on the steering wheel to shift.

The ATESSA (4WD) setup from an R32 GTR runs no preload to the front diff (which is in the sump) so it is as simple as pulling a fuse or putting a switch in to turn it off. It is essentially RWD unless it senses wheelspin.. there are a LOT of sensors that would need transplanting though (speed sensors on each wheel, G sensors from in the cabin etc), for someone such as yourself it would be doable but by no means an easy feat.

Hell.. if it was me I'd be going with an RB26/30, GT35R turbo, series 2 Stag auto 4wd box with 32GTR ATESSA setup!

Hi,

I'm a skyline driver and love them heaps. But u can not deny the power, torque, reliability, displacement of the 2jz tt out of a Toyota supra/chaser/soarer/mark ii. They can produce 500hp with stock internals.

Anyhow, as I said I'm a skyline man. But u r after a race car engine and that is my opinion.

Some series' of racing did use the VHs and VKs, but most other series' used VGs and VQs.

Nismo VQ30DETT puts out the same power as the VR38DETT >_<

Remember guys he isnt moving 1400kg of street car, he said atleast 1800 and could be more...he needs torque.

VQ30DET produces as much power and more torque than an RB26DETT...so get a bigger VQ block, DE-K heads, twin turbo's and a Z32 style twin throttle body setup...that would eat ANY RB powered vehicle.

Otherwise, V8 FTW. Go for a VK since theyre lighter than the VHs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...