Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've read around and seen from adds on FRONT/DUMP pipes, and also, recently, from adding intercoolers that because of exhaust flow efficency, or cooler temps that your car will be running at higher boost.

Surely this ISN'T correct.

Although I do believe that you are no capable of running higher boost with better efficiency, or less danger, or whatever others reasons. And I agree that you might spool up quicker. They definatley make sense.....

BUT, you must be limited to what your boost controller is set to. I don't care if there's a massive vacuum sucking gases out of your turbo. As soon as it reaches it's set limit, it will hold it there and no further.

So basically, the theory is (in my mind) mod ecerything to make it smoother and cooler but no extra boost will be obtained until you mod or replace the boost controller.

Am I wrong???

Thanks...Birnie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29934-no-extra-boost-from-mods-theory/
Share on other sites

You are wrong.

It is a very well known and accepted fact that when replacing factory dumps/fronts etc. that you will most likely raise the boost that the trubo can supply to the manifold.

Ask any speed shop or techie out there.

I haven't got time to go into specifics, but yes, you can definently make more boost with a less restrictive exhaust.

BASS OUT

Thanks for the info BASS

Still trying to get my head around things. Thought I was was on a winner there. Doh!

I'll have to keep searching for the more technical answers but that's ok.

Even from reading your reply, "you will most likely raise the boost that the turbo can supply to the manifold". I can accept that, but why should it when it's set to a certain level. Still searching.

Catch ya..Birnie

That's right.

Most turbos take their boost reading from right at the compressor, and hence the turbo might see 10 psi, but because of restrictions in the system, it might only be able to supply 7 psi to the manifold.

Remove the restrictions (in both intercooler and exhaust) and you get your 3 psi back.

Aftermarket boost controllers can take their reading from anywhere, therefor can regulate boost at the manifold if required, and also manipulate the boost to what they want.

BASS OUT

if the turbos took their reading from the compressor the boost guage would not read vacuume cos the butterfly in the plenm would prevent this.i think what you guys are saying is that restrictive i/c and piping causes the turbo to run at higher boost that what the manifold is getting its like blowing through a thin straw,your mouth is building more pressure than what is felt at the end of the straw.Therefore if u have less restrictive piping and i/c the turbo is not working harder to reach boost and maintain it.when you boost your car to 12 psi thats the reading u get at the manifold.

Seems like a bit of DIS information here.

Yes a skyline does have stock boost control. The controller is not an adjustable type, just bleeds off xxx amount of pressure (to the wastegate) to generate 5psi(stock) to 5000 rpm, and 7 psi (stock) 5000-7000rpm.

the reason a cat back will raise boost (on stock boost control) is, as mentioned, the drop in back pressure, you should expect around 2psi - if of course you have an EBC it will not make any difference.

Boost is measured from the plenum, boost for wastegate control is usually taken from the compressor outlet, or very close to it - there is a difference.

Stock intercooler can have a massive pressure drop above 6000rpm, as the boost is measured from the plenum, even though the boost guage see xxx psi of boost, the turbo will be producing much higher boost than being measured.

A good intercooler will allow you to run higher boost more safely than the stock intercooler due to a lesser pressure drop over the stock unit, also, it is most likely more efficient than the stock nissan interwarmer, therefore will give power gains at the same boost over the stock unit as well.

Hope that makes sense.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...