Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, guyz,

i need some help.

last year i bought the XBOX 360 Elite to take back home for my bro.

unfortunately it was stolen at the South African Airport from my checked in luggage. i seperated the harddrive and controllers and games so who over stole it only took the console and the big Power thingy.

Now i am going back home and my bro has all the stuff that remained. 2 wireless controllers, hard drive headsets and all.

i am planning to buy an XBOX 360 Arcade since he only needs the console.

do u guyz know which consoles are more likely to have the RROD errors?

whats the difference between the XBOX arcade bundle version 1 and other arcade versions? was the error fixed in the new versions?

i am planning on getting one from Dicksmith. Link below

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...uct/View/YG1179

if someone knows if there are issues with this version let me know.

Cheers.

Love u all

Vish. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299460-xbox-360-help/
Share on other sites

See here:

http://www.anandtech.com/gadgets/showdoc.aspx?i=3424

The power rating is how you work it out. The Jasper Xbox's use less as per below:

14.2 amps equals a Falcon unit (65nm CPU, 90nm GPU).You might not be able to see the whole voltage listing just through the peep-hole, but you should at least be able to see if a 14.2A or 12.1A is just to the left of the "5V".

12.1 amps equals a Jasper unit (65nm CPU, 65nm GPU). This voltage rating is also listed above the power input, but of course you can't see that when it's in the box.

12V...12.1A:5V...1A <~~~Look for this and just below it says MADE IN CHINA

MADE IN CHINA

12V...14.2A:5V...1A <~~~This is a Falcon Chipset it is 14.2A

MADE IN CHINA

There has been a lot of discussion about lot #'s, power supply ratings, and things of that nature being used to find Jaspers. I have found those to be unreliable.Some Jasper's came with a 175W power supply (like the Falcons used). They are probably trying to use up all the older PSU's and thus it was packed with the unit. Keep in mind that even if the Jasper only needs 150W it's not a issue to power it with a 175W supply, just like people who put 700W PSU's in their PC's for no apparent reason.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299460-xbox-360-help/#findComment-4977825
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...