Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well today turned out to be a black saturday for me today.

been to pick up some xmas pressies as we do and I took off from the lights sedatley got to 2nd i think and (no bang) rattle rattle loose oil pressure?

I was travelling about 30-40kmh and only about 100m or so from the lights and at first i thought i ran over a can on the road or something.

I am no mechanic but if seems bad.... Sheez I only had my timming belt, pullys, water pump done 3 or so weeks ago..

Anyway I have confirmed that my belt is still attached as I can see thru the oil cap when the car is in gear and see the lobes move when i rock the car back & forth. So where does this leave me broken piston conrod valves etc $$$$?

Car has done only 104k.

I was saving up to get the hiflow turbo serviced and put new seals in as it was starting to let oil thru under excelaration

So where do i go from here? and who car I take it too in the SE suburbs (Cranny, Dandenong areas)

I eventually had it towed back home as I was only 2km from base. was the longest drive home i had . Like a funeral march

Next doo neighbour (Nic the wog) says great now put all the big gear in as he starts up his v8 monaro only 10k. Unfortunately I am not that loaded so I need some advise how & where to start with this as is a daily driver not a race car had I think around 196rwkw

Need another drink!!!

>_<

Dazza

did u check your oil level? i think stuff like this hapens wen u run ur car withoiut oil..

how severe was the knocking? did he car jerk? well hopefully you've acted quick enough and avoided big end bearing damage, which would need a rebuild (5 to 7K) or engine replacement (2K i think?)

Is it driveable? Like, does it stay on at least at idle? Or is it refusing to start/stay on?

Can you boost it at all?

And is there any visible smoke coming out the back?

Guys,

Benz: the oil level is fine, the knocking sounded at first like you running over a can on the road that dosnt go away and no the car didnt jerk from recognition.

Mosquito: Unfortunately no it isnt drivable , if i try to start its click (like a flat battery) therefore no boost or oil smoke etc...

Any other ideas and example of cost for a posible rebuild....

ie

standard $

forged $

Regards,

Darren

Clicking noise usually means your engine is seized. Battery is overloaded casing solinoid switch to cut out. Put can in neutral and get a socket to fit on the crank shaft pulley and see if you can turn it. Even a good engine is a bit hard because of the compession. Anyway do not jump to any conclusions as it can also be the gear box. If you can not turn the engine over by hand, get some one to push down on the clutch peddle and try again.

Could also be a case were the timing belt has gone loose and jumped positioning. Hence the rattle noise (piston hitting valve).

Did you notice any thing strange before this happened. Such as any loss of power or funy noises?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...