Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as the topic states I was just looking to see how much it would cost to get a clutch replaced with just a standard part (genuine or aftermarket does not really bother me) for a VT commodore. I'm looking at prices in melbourne including labour?

My guess was around the $500 mark but am probably wrong.

Thanks for any advice guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300769-clutch-slippingreplacement-cost/
Share on other sites

Done one of these at work the other week. Not cheap mate. The clutch kit comes with a new flywheel as the factory one is non machinable, if it hasn't been changed before. Genuine want close to 1500 (approx, don't hold me on that) for the kit, and the flywheel they supply is non machinable again, but if ya go to repco they are cheaper by around 500 (again approx), and comes with a machinable flywheel.

V6 or V8?

If V6...you're looking at $900 for a clutch kit including a new flywheel that isn't dual mass. Or $1150 if you want another dual mass flywheel, but god knows why you would.

The gearboxes aren't fantastic either. I've sold so many Getrag 260s for these things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...