Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone

I been thinking for while of getting a FMIC, but now that ive starting looking into it theres alot of different sizes and core dimensions etc...

I have a series 1 GTS-T M-SPEC will the FMIC fit without much mods to the front bar?

Just wanted to know what other people have put on and dimensions please.. my Budget is about $2000 installed i dont want to blow my budget.

Im also getting the exhaust done dump pipe and high flow cat any recomendations on that would be great also!

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30089-fmic/
Share on other sites

You have to cut the bar for any decent sized fmic. I haven't done it myself but the workshop that installed the fmic did so without too many dramas. I don't think it's that hard.

Dump pipe and cat - get one of each from BATMBL! See the car parts trading forum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30089-fmic/#findComment-611765
Share on other sites

I'm thinking of putting a GTR cooler on mine... I figure i only wanna run around 12-14PSI (GTR runs that) and it should virtually bolt straight on no worries...

Plus I only wanna take the car to a max of around 200RWKW (for the time being) so the GTR cooler should do the trick...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30089-fmic/#findComment-612668
Share on other sites

Dimensions i think are around 600x300x70 (but don't quote me on that. Piping work is easy, just take it an exhaust place and they'll get it done for you for around $300-$400.

Sounds like a GTR intercooler will do the trick!!! Thanks alot Guys now have to start find one for a good price.

What u reckon is a reasonable price? $500-700??????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30089-fmic/#findComment-613350
Share on other sites

If you don't want to cut the front bar yet still get good performance out of the IC use a Bar and plate.

Mine fits perfectly behind the front bar.

Its rated at its optimum of 580hp with a 1.5psi pressure drop.

From memory its got 60-63mm inlet/outlet 2.5", 600 x 300 x 90. I think.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30089-fmic/#findComment-613384
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...