Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Doing a bit of research I discovered that the A32/A33 Maxima has a 72mm TB, which is the size I want to use on a forward facing plenum when I get one.

Would anybody with a suitable plenum (Greddy, Plazmaman, etc) on their RB25 be willing to lend a hand to see if this TB will fit? If my idea works it could save a few people hundreds of dollars as you wouldn't have to buy a billet CNC item for silly amounts of cash.

This won't be until after Xmas but let me know if you're happy to help out - i'll bring beers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300954-rb25-plenum-tb-experiment/
Share on other sites

you can get an adapter to fit the stock throttle body to the Greddy plenum or just fit a Q45 throttle body. why go to the effort of reinventing the wheel?

Having spoken to Plazmaman they recommended the 72mm TB over an 80mm or 90mm item for better response, so that's what i'm planning on using. Given that a lot of Nissan parts are interchangable I'd thought I'd see if this would work on one of their plenums. If the bolt hole locations are different I'll see how much TRD will charge to machine an adapter plate. The last thing I had them machine for me was insanely cheap, so I doubt this will cost much. All up I reckon it would be cheaper than a Plazmaman TB ($500) to buy the part I want & have an adapter machined.

Why spend $500 when i don't have to?

why not just buy the plenum from plazmaman that fits the std TB?

and of course he will tell you that "his" 72mm squillion dollar TB is better than an ebay 80mm one or the standard one.

In my experience changing throttle bodies on car that doesnt have ITBs does sweet FA especially boosted ones....there are plently of 350rwkw+ rb25s running around with the standard intake/TB combo

why not just buy the plenum from plazmaman that fits the std TB?

and of course he will tell you that "his" 72mm squillion dollar TB is better than an ebay 80mm one or the standard one.

In my experience changing throttle bodies on car that doesnt have ITBs does sweet FA especially boosted ones....there are plently of 350rwkw+ rb25s running around with the standard intake/TB combo

Standard TB is 60mm, 72mm should give better response - that's the aim for the car as I'm not into dyno figures & dick measuring kw contests, I just want the car to be very responsive for drifting.

Naturally Plazmaman have given me a sales pitch to sell their own TB at 3billion % mark up, so I'm trying to find an alternative. If my plan doesn't work i've lost all of $60 getting the part from Japan (Aussie wreckers wanted $110 or more incl delivery) and can still put the standard TB on.

I've never heard of anybody trying to do this before so I thought I'd give it a shot. Somebody has to think outside the box, otherwise we'd all get ripped off more often.

Im all for giving it a go mate :D

just saying that dont expect a massive difference, do you have a pic of how the cable mount etc are.

the maxima is FWD so the donk is mounted East-West so while the bolt holes might line up, but there may be a lot of stuffing around getting the cable to line up properly

R33

post-67928-1262217667_thumb.jpg

A32

post-67928-1262217925_thumb.jpg

The plug location is different as are some of the lines, but we'll see what happens once I get the plenum. The TB should arrive from Japan in a couple of weeks - i'm buying a few parts at once but most of the shops shut down over the end of year break and don't open until next week at the earliest.

Edited by a31rb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...