Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

basically im running a R32 with a RB25det (see my garage) it is being a bit of a b*tch to cold start the engine... i have a few posibilities from other peeps and just want a few opinions

1. Ignighter problem ($1200 for a replacement from nissan even with staff discount :ermm: )

2. Sparks(i may have got a bit enthusiastic tapping them to .8mm... will test this tomorrow :P )

3. Fuel pump (unlikely as it runs fine and is aftermarket :D )

4. Starter motor (as far as i can tell its working fine :) )

5. timing/air-fuel mix

any help on this matter would be much apprecaited and maybe rewarded with beer (not through post though)

Edited by Jimmae Viper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301430-im-stumped-help/
Share on other sites

Assuming you are running a stock rb25 with stock ecu.

Have you done a compression check on the engine?

When i lost partial compression in one cylinder, my car was a farker to cold start. At the time, i thought it ran fine, came on boost fine and still made the ass-end loose at the top of 2nd. But the moment my mechanic heard it, he knew i hurt the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301430-im-stumped-help/#findComment-5004613
Share on other sites

ok when i say a bitch to cold start i mean not runnning temp (weather doesnt affect it)[it fires but then dies or is really sluggish until it gets going, it also stalls if i igve it too much gas before it warms to running temp]...

i had a compression check done and its fine...

Stock 25 ECU...

ill look for the cold start valve in the morning as i gotta take off the body kit to get under...

as for pin 43 i dont mess with the pins ect so have no idea about that...

anyone know where i can get a diagramm for the engine as i lost mine from my computer (damn missus)

Thanks for the massive amount of response, now who wants to help me do a cut and polish :)

JV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301430-im-stumped-help/#findComment-5005374
Share on other sites

What spark plugs? And try opening the gaps back out to 1mm, seeing as you are running everything stock. Try starting with the ECU temp sender (2-pin connector) disconnected.

Don't understand how a body kit can get in the way of the inlet plenum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301430-im-stumped-help/#findComment-5005553
Share on other sites

How old is your battery?

Perhaps giving the battery a full charge or replacing it with a new or different one laying around.

Im recharging my battery at the moment as it gives my car a sluggish start.

I might be silly thinking about the battery but anything is worth a try if you can be bothered. :wub:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301430-im-stumped-help/#findComment-5005854
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...