Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

about the calibration of the speed gun,used by the officer..do you have to right to ask them for the re-calibration papers for it?as I was told that the gun must be calibrated or at least checked everyday and logged.If you get caught,you can ask for those papers..if theres none,then the fine may be void if you were not too far over the speed limit.

I think it applies here in nz..just wondering if it does there too.

where can you download all the camera sites in to a gps, what is the best gps to have these days, i get my license back in 4 weeks and will be needing

to know where these camera's are. it's been a long 3 years so i have no idea where any are now.

i'm just using a basic garmin unit. plenty of websites have the speed camera locations, but they are generally only the fixed camera locations. some will give the locations frequented by the speed camera vans, but you don't know if they will be there or not, and also if they are in a new spot you won't know either.

best bet is to stick to the speed limit as someone said.

about the calibration of the speed gun,used by the officer..do you have to right to ask them for the re-calibration papers for it?as I was told that the gun must be calibrated or at least checked everyday and logged.If you get caught,you can ask for those papers..if theres none,then the fine may be void if you were not too far over the speed limit.

I think it applies here in nz..just wondering if it does there too.

somewhere in the Australian Standards it would mention that sort of information, ill have a look when i get home, the old man has a copy of them

somewhere in the Australian Standards it would mention that sort of information, ill have a look when i get home, the old man has a copy of them

i couldn't see too much that states information about the time of calibration of the radar. just that it needs to be calibrated by a certified company

it references, that if a police officer hasn't used a radar gun in the last 12 months, they need to sit for a re-examination to make sure they are competent with the device and how to use it correctly (not just as simple as point and capture speed, other factors needs to be applied) as specifed by the manufacturer.

but in saying that, by asking for all these papers of "recalibration" "how long ago did you use the radar gun officer" etc etc will most likely see you bent over and lubed up by the long arm of the law.... if your contesting a couple of k's over the above isn't worth it, accept you were speeding and move along.

but in saying that, by asking for all these papers of "recalibration" "how long ago did you use the radar gun officer" etc etc will most likely see you bent over and lubed up by the long arm of the law.... if your contesting a couple of k's over the above isn't worth it, accept you were speeding and move along.

that's what I was thinking - now that you have pissed them off, bend over while they look for other problems (*read Mods) you may have with your car, etc.

i'm just using a basic garmin unit. plenty of websites have the speed camera locations, but they are generally only the fixed camera locations. some will give the locations frequented by the speed camera vans, but you don't know if they will be there or not, and also if they are in a new spot you won't know either.

best bet is to stick to the speed limit as someone said.

Trapster works well, available on iPhone and possibly a number of other handhelds by now? It can tell you where the known spots are based on user submissions, along with fixed speed/red light cameras.

You can also set it up for push notifications so if someone reports a camera you will get an update on your phone much like an SMS.

You can also set it up to alert you based on how common a known location is so that way its not alerting you almost constantly.

Whilst not speeding is obviously the best thing, I think its fairly obvious that they find easy target locations the majority of the time and I know I'd rather be extra safe if I know I'm approaching a mobile radar.

i'd rather get book for speeding and have to walk eveywhere than own an iphone, LOL

and you can join websites that have user submitted mobile speed camera locations, but they sometimes charge a joining fee. the site i got the free fixed camera locations from had them but i wasn't going to pay to join. as it was i cheated the system to get the spoken audio alert for the speed cameras and redlight cameras (only got the redlight cameras one because there is a redlight camera in town but the nearest fixed speed camera is about an hour away so i wouldn't to see if they worked). you had to join the site to get the spoken warning, but they had a link where you could play the warning to hear what it sounded like, so it was just a case of *right click on link*, *save link as..* and bob's your aunty, spoken warning for speed cameras and redlight cameras

hahaha very funny! lol I'm not an apple person, far from it.. in fact after I upgraded to the iphone i was thinking omg wtf am I doing! lol I must say though, once you start exploring the apps available it's really great. My main preference was for the full web browser functionality more than anything.

Anyhow, phone brand/models aside, trapster's definitely a great app to have to be prewarned about mobile radars and police checkpoints (particularly when you drive a Skyline). It's available on various smart phone platforms: http://trapster.com/download_phones.php The new version has a number of additional features like points of interest etc.. similar to GPS so there's a bit of bonus functionality there.

Above all else though, sticking to the limit is the best way to not get caught. If anything, using programs like trapster and seeing the number of known spots, as well as the general mobile speed radar presence in Brisbane the last half year has made me a better driver in that regard. You don't have to speed everywhere you go, and you'll save a bit of money in fuel in the process :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...