Washed Engine Bay, Now Car Wont Start...gg!

[tadrosone]

ive hit search but have not found a similar case.

i sprayed degreaser all over my engine bay and gave it a light hose down as i read on one of the topics here on how to detail your car besides using the power hose.

i covered the intake, alarm, n boost controller just in case n when i came to start the car it just cranks but wont kick over.

i called nrma n they said that theres no pulse coming from the distributor when he was holding the crank angle sensor n said to wait a couple of days for it to dry out, but problem is i need the car to get to work tonight so i need it running asap!

any ideas of how to get it running or if it could be potentially anything else that could be preventing my car from starting?

cheers

[tadrosone]

and if it is my cas, where can i get one today in sydney?

[Jezza-gtR]

What car + engine do you have?

Your gonna have to let it dry out and hope that it does. A hint for next time, leave the engine running when you wash it

[tadrosone]

woop that was essential ey lol

s2 r33 gtst

yer man not gnr touch the engine bay with water no more lol

[gotRICE?]

What car + engine do you have?

Your gonna have to let it dry out and hope that it does. A hint for next time, leave the engine running when you wash it

But of course make sure the engine is cold before hosing it down Then go for a drive and dry it all out. Wont take long.

Iv done it a million times and never had troubles. I think some people just poke the hose into places they shouldnt for too long haha

[tadrosone]

haha nah man i was skeptical hosing it down so i was hosing it like a bitch on a angle and it still shat itself on me, and it was cold when i hosed it down.

[GTRNUR]

Remove the coil pack cover and make sure your coil packs and plugs arent being drowned by water. Ive seen this before with washed engines not starting again. It most likely isnt the CAS as they are a fully sealed unit. You should be able to completely immerse the sensor and it will still be ok.

[tadrosone]

ok. found water in spark plugs 2-5. vacuumed it all out dry.

wouldnt start.

sprayed plugs n coils with wd-40. fail

battery went flat.

charged it.

its cranking but not kicking over.

just got the car serviced 2 days ago so new sparkes n all that.

im at a wall at the moment.

[GTRNUR]

Chances are its flooded all to hell now because its been cranked over for too long with no ignition. You have 2 options.

1. Leave it on charge overnight and just try it in the morning. Try cranking it over with the throttle flat to the floor to clear the flooding.

2. (And you might need to do this anyway if 1 doesnt work). Unplug the injectors, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over with the throttle wide open for about 15 seconds. This will clear all the fuel from the engine.

Then plug all the spark plugs into the coils. Earth all the plugs with a bit of wire to the engine (yes 6 bits of wire). Then turn the engine over again to test your ignition is actually working. (have someone watch the plugs). If they all spark then put it all back together again. The car should then start normally.

Let us know how it goes.

[tadrosone]

my dad got an old friend to come over and check it out today.

hes apparantly a nissan specialist for 23yrs.

and the verdict is the alarm is stopping current from going to the sparkies.

he checked all fuses, see if the ecu was burnt, water all gone from the coils and sparkies, sprayed wd-40 everywhere,

no good.

so how do i go about disabling the alarm, because i dont even know what kind it is.

[rgr34]

how you go there? strange your alarm is playing up now maybe a short due to getting wet?.. some alarms you get a key to turn it off/ bypass it...

Edited January 4, 2010 by rgr34

[REAPAH]

When you got your alarm it should of come with a special small looking key. If you got that still try that on most alarms it should disable the immobiliser

[allthewaytotheskyline]

that smalll key just disables the siren.

[GTRNUR]

I'd lay money that the problem isnt an alarm related issue. Did your dad's mate test the ignitor digital inputs to the ignitor with an oscilloscope when the engine was being cranked? If not then his diagnosis is incorrect.

The ignition coils will not fire and neither will the ignitors if there is an issue with the CAS sensor. If your CAS sensor has been stuffed around with and the seals on it are broken, water will have definatly gotten in there and it will be messing with the optic sensor. The ignition coils fire in full sequental mode and the injectors in batch fire mode (when cranking) on RB engines. For the engine to start at all the CAS sensor has to be operating correctly or the ECU doesnt know where in the 720 degrees rotation the crankshaft is, and therefore it can not fire the correct ignition coil.

1. Do you see any RPM on the tacho when cranking the engine? If yes then the problem is electrical... Ie power to injecors or ignition coils. If no then look at the CAS sensor again. Try and borrow another sensor from someone else.

2. If someone else's CAS sensor fixes the problem you can try drying yours out by carefully pulling the cover off and then letting it dry out in the sun for a little while. Do not touch the trigger disc or spray the sensor with anything, especially WD40. It is an OPTIC sensor and needs to be clean and dry, not lubricated. Some electronic cleaning solvents will damage plastics in optic sensors too, and ALL of them spray out cold so they attract moisture when evaporating, not solving the moisture problem, but instead adding to it.

3. Basic electrical tests. Test from the temp sensors and throttle position sensor to the engine block with a multi-meter. You should get 5V on one side of all the sensors. (except the narrow band exhaust gas sensor).

4. Test for power supply to injectors. You should see 12V from both sides of the injector plug (when connected to the injector) or one side when unplugged, when measured to ground.

5. Coil pack supply power can be measured at the ignitor. Unplug the output from ignitor that goes to the coils and measure from each of the 6 pins to ground and you should see 12v provided the coils are all plugged in properly. Check the earth on your ignitor, it should be screwed to the rocker cover or the ignitor will not work reliably, and can potentially burn out if you just leave it floating around held in place with a prayer. The ignitor fires the coils when it receives a +5V pulse signal from the ECU. You can not measure this with a multi-meter. You will only detect pulses with an oscilloscope, as they are only 1-2ms in duration.

6. If you know someone with a power fc or other aftermarket management ecu ask them to try it in your car so they can help diagnose the cause of the issue.

Most importantly... If none of this makes sense, then dont even try diagnosing it any further yourself. You need the assistance of someone that actualy understands EFI and especially someone with Skyline experience. Tinkering with things you do not understand can potentially result in a lot more broken components, and an even more expensive bill when you do finally get a professional to look at it.

Good luck again!

Ian

[tadrosone]

cars up and running!

got my crank angle sensor tested and the test said it wasnt working.

So i went and bought a 2nd hand CAS and i still had the same problem. Bought another one n the same problem.

Got an alarm guy to come out and have a look, and traced it back to when i was vacuuming the car i knocked the kill switch off, which i never knew i had. gg.

And i am using my factory CAS, which the test said it was gone, costed me $50 to test.

Ah well, plus side is now i have a kill switch and my cars running!

cheers for all the help guys!