Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im in need of some help, im actually from brisbane and im in the market for a GTR and i have found one that i really want. Basically i got it inspected with the usual compression and leak down tests completed etc and it failed how ever the owner of the car feels that the inspection is not accurate and is happy for another inspection. He does not mind where the car is taken he just believes that it deserves another inspection, as it has already cost me $250.00 for the first inspection im really hoping that this next inspection is more accurate. So what im asking is if anyone feels that they are mechanically capable or knows of anyone that is onto it when it comes to GTR's than i would appreciate your help im willing to pay what ever is required to get this car checked out im really desperate as im on the other side of australia.

Drewe

0413 224 081 :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302193-please-help/
Share on other sites

You posted this thread in the W.A section so I assume that you are buying a GTR from over here?

If I were you I'd look in the consolidate workshop thread and find a workshop that is close to the dude and get them to do a compression test etc..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302193-please-help/#findComment-5012767
Share on other sites

If it was checked by a reputable workshop the first time around and failed, why would a 2nd test be any different beside you spending more money?

If your so keen to have it re-inspected, as Lukas said check the consolidated workshop thread

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302193-please-help/#findComment-5013066
Share on other sites

If he is so convinced it is ok, you tell him wear to take it and he can pay and if it comes back ok then buy it??

Sounds fair to me....

Just make sure you get it i some were reputable that you can/will trust and that they can back up there claims in writing....

Edited by GODZ1LLA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302193-please-help/#findComment-5013373
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...