Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

A mate of mine has a car similar to mine and when the motor vehicle is cold mostly and reversing out of garage with the clutch a little bit under friction point the underneath of the car begins to shudder and goes away with clutch is pushed in. When doing it again while accelerating it does not do it.

Once warm its pretty much fine. Any ideas?

Thought it could be the clutch even though it doesn't slip, could this have something to do with gearbox? Not too sure if anyone has experienced something similar I could try and arrange a video if need be.

There is also a strange slight scraping/scratching/rattling type noise which comes from underneath the car near the gearbox area when the motor vehicle is turned on and warming up this may have something to do with it but no idea. If anyone has experienced this it would be good to know what it is also.

Cheers

i have this problem too.. but when taking off in 1st when its cold... i think its the clutch because depending on the way you give the clutch, it happens.. if you rev it abit and let the clutch out, it doesnt happen.. not 100% tho

Edited by shaun123

I get that too. It almost feels like a 5puk clutch that is trying to slip. Or it feels like my ITR did with my 5puck solid center.

I think its just the way we drive, not enough rev? too much slip? Could be anything :bunny:

Does he have a standard clutch or aftermarket?

My heavy duty clutch does a similar shudder noise at low rpm's. But it just needs a little more rpm i think.. i have heard numerous noises from other peoples cars with heavy clutches so I think its normal.

The clutch is standard from what I know.

Will try and get a video with sound to give you guys an idea.

Same as me, stock clutch/pressure plate. So id say its just a driving issue. It will be fine :) (or not an issue.. just whatever)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...