Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought I would start a new thread for this, even tho I mentioned it in the previous thread I started... also helps me get my post count up :D ...

On a more technical note, one of the cars, that is destined to become the primary hack, had a blown head gasket. I had one of my heads overhauled (not sure what model, kidney shaped combustion chamber, small valves, FI ports (E88 rings a bell)... I ported it a little and matched it myself for free... I stripped off all of the polution gear and water heating for the manifolds/TB that I could see...

I now have two problems, I can get the car to start, it has fuel and spark, but nothing I do to the throttle has any effect... I changed the AFM and TPS with no effect... the car was running until the head came off, and I am a bit lost for ideas...

it is also pissing water out of either the head/block joint or Inlet Manifold/Head joint (where I don't think there are any water galleries). I am thinking perhaps one of the manifold studs/bolts has penetrated the water gallery in the head. I don't want to pull that apart until after I get the car running so I can transport it...

Any ideas???

The car starts and idles very badly (no exhaust, just headers)... but opening the TB has no effect, opening the AFM has no effect... the car just continues to idel exactly the same... I am wondering if one of the sensors I have disconnected would send the ECU into limp mode or something...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302545-l24e-throttle-has-no-effect/
Share on other sites

I assume this is a MR30, look at this,

http://noddle.customer.netspace.net.au/MR3...ediagpage5.jpeg

it may help diagnosed your problem.

here are some more wiring diagrams that may help you out

http://noddle.customer.netspace.net.au/MR30

Nigel

....

The car starts and idles very badly (no exhaust, just headers)... but opening the TB has no effect, opening the AFM has no effect... the car just continues to idel exactly the same... I am wondering if one of the sensors I have disconnected would send the ECU into limp mode or something...

Just an uneducated guess here but there is a throttle valve switch that tells the ECU if the throttle is fully closed or open. Is that still connected?

JH

Just an uneducated guess here but there is a throttle valve switch that tells the ECU if the throttle is fully closed or open. Is that still connected?

JH

That sounds like a likely culprit... where is the sensor for that located on the TB?

Yep, that's what I was calling the throttle postion sensor... connected, and swapped it with one I know works without effect...

Cheers,

Darryl

This switch has to be aligned, ie

it's a two way switch,

position one, is no throttle

position two, full throttle (3/4/ I think it is)

there is no linier value with this TPS.

Nigel

This switch has to be aligned, ie

it's a two way switch,

position one, is no throttle

position two, full throttle (3/4/ I think it is)

there is no linier value with this TPS.

Nigel

I dare you guys not to laugh when you read what the problem ended up being... I dare you...

The cars are at a mates place, and he has a lot of trouble with wasps making their mud nests in every available hole... so he had jammed a black spray paint can lid into the pipe from the AFM to the TB... right in the middle where the pipe bent... to stop wasps nesting in the inlet manifold :rofl:

so the car now runs (very badly but runs)...

Next problem tho... this car was supposed to be fine other than a blown headgasket... so I have now changed the head gasket and oil and filter, and the oil is again just as white as before I started... head is torqued correctly, so I don't think it will be a gasket (didn't really check that the block was flat I guess)... anywhere else where wet stuff often mixes with black stuff to become white stuff???

Cheers,

Daewoo

I dare you guys not to laugh when you read what the problem ended up being... I dare you...

The cars are at a mates place, and he has a lot of trouble with wasps making their mud nests in every available hole... so he had jammed a black spray paint can lid into the pipe from the AFM to the TB... right in the middle where the pipe bent... to stop wasps nesting in the inlet manifold :)

so the car now runs (very badly but runs)...

Next problem tho... this car was supposed to be fine other than a blown headgasket... so I have now changed the head gasket and oil and filter, and the oil is again just as white as before I started... head is torqued correctly, so I don't think it will be a gasket (didn't really check that the block was flat I guess)... anywhere else where wet stuff often mixes with black stuff to become white stuff???

Cheers,

Daewoo

I've seen holes in the front timing cover once, it had corroded through, into the engine

Agreed. I redid my head twice before I realised the problem was a actually pin hole in the timing cover - not noticable until I held it up in the sun and saw the light, so to speak. From memory there is also a hidden welsh plug under the timing cover, so that may also have corroded.

Thanks for that info...

Yeah, you can drop the timing cover if you drop the sump, done it a few times on the 1600...

I'll check that out...

Cheers,

Darryl

I've had the hole in the back of the water pump twice now. Got it welded the first time and replaced it with one from an L20 the second time.

I've had the hole in the back of the water pump twice now. Got it welded the first time and replaced it with one from an L20 the second time.

This will be the first thing I check when I go to work on the car this weekend...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...