Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Getting my car serviced just need some advice on major parts i should get inspected / replaced. (have read about 20 pages of crap in the oils thread)

97 series II rb25det, 125,000k's.. mods 3 inch exhaust, greddy oil cooler, pod filter..

parts i have already

o2 sensor

ngk iridiums BKR6EIX

greddy oil filter

So what i was looking to get down is

1. flush radiator / replace coolant

2. flush engine oil / replace oil filter + motul turbolite 10w-40

3. injector flush

4. replace the clutch boot fork

5. clean aac valve (will do this myself)

6. clean throttle body (will do this myself)

Would it be good to replace trans / diff oils at the same time (unsure when it was last done)

I've noticed a little bit of moisture (oil) around the turbo lines too, probably a good idea to get the lines checked?

Any info would help :P

Also, best place to take my 33? I dont mind travelling for good service / reasonable price..

Edited by defari
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302860-servicing-my-33/
Share on other sites

I'd be doing all the basic stuff like oil change/flush and coolant myself if I were you. Unless of course you work a lot and don't have the time for it. At least when your doing it yourself you save money and know that it's been done properly. Too many dodgy mechanics out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302860-servicing-my-33/#findComment-5023647
Share on other sites

for the most basic stuff you can do yourself, even if you cant really wield a spanner its still quite easy and simple to understand.

1. flush radiator / replace coolant - google the rb25 manual, its free and download, tells you how to do all that

2. flush engine oil / replace oil filter + motul turbolite 10w-40 - turn into an asian with small hands cause you'll need them to get the oil filter, may aswell buy a relocation kit while your at it. Also put some proper oil in it Mobil 1 fully synthetic for instance.

3. injector flush - get some injector cleaner and run it through a tank

4. replace the clutch boot fork - ring nissan and quote this part number: 30542-69F00

5. clean aac valve (will do this myself) - swoit buy some gasket silicone (its made my loctite i think and its blue) and i gather you found the tutorial

6. clean throttle body (will do this myself) - swoit buy some gasket silicone (its made my loctite i think and its blue)

7. Would it be good to replace trans / diff oils at the same time - yes may as well again use a nice oil Mobil 75-90 in fully synthetic (if you track car) or mineral if its just on the street.

8. As for turbo lines, get a can of degreaser, spray the area, take it for a reasonable drive and inspect. All nissan motors seem to think oil is evil.

hope all goes well, otherwise hitup dan as the above members have mentioned.

Edited by 32_Dave
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302860-servicing-my-33/#findComment-5025136
Share on other sites

If you are worried about yr injectors, I'd head to EFI Performance.

They have a fancy (read expensive) machine that will properly clean injectors, then they'll test all injectors are flowing at the same rate (within x% of your other injectors).

If you are planning to run your car at the track, I'd be making sure your fuel delivery is 100%. and getting them to clean/test injectors isn't that much.

BTW, I've been told the injector cleaner that you add to your fuel tank isn't that affective.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302860-servicing-my-33/#findComment-5025305
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...