Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Started to notice discomfort with my clutch tonight while I was driving.

I'm not sure if the clutch is about to go out or not, I've never had to get one changed so I'm not to sure what to look out for.

Anyway, here's what I noticed;

when I step on the pedal it seems to make like creaking noise ( like an old door hinge).

After a few shift changes ( eg; completing 1st to 3rd or 4th the pedal seems to be sorta stuck halfway when I depress and wouldt bounce back up and needs to be pulled up gently with my foot )

however, I do not notice any slipping or high RPM with low torque..

Anyway, clutch experts out there, please do help me and advise me that I need a new clutch or if something can be done to fix it..

Thanks in advance and hopefully I do hear some advise from u guys..

Calvz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303784-symptoms-of-failing-clutch/
Share on other sites

The gearbox needs to come out to fix the creaking mist likely anyway. Have it removed and the problem will reveal itself. I'd say the pivot ball is dry and/or broken. Could be the diaphram in the clutch cover also.

thank you for the reply.

I have heard only good things about you n ur knowledge so I'll take that advise and check it out..

Shame that ERD isn't in Victoria, cuz I would prefer to get it checked out by u as I don't really trust other mechanics because they may exagerate the issue.

Cheers mate

Calvz

Crackling noise maby spigot bush is worn not sure see the reason I'm guessing is my mate had his clutch replaced (bakyard job) and the installer couldn't get the spigot bush out so they left it.. (i know..tools) but yeh the noise got worse work shop says "doesn't sound good at all ..." told him didnt replace the spigot and he goes thats prolly it...

now the peddle not coming back up ... put it this way.. u blow ur clutch the clutch peddle will stick right down lol so maby its on its way... now im not 1000% but yeah just from some small experience its all i can think of...

Is the creaking noise coming from inside the car ( Or seems like it is ?) As I had a similar experience with an R32..Turned out the pedal box broke a spot weld and eventually pedal fell to the floor...Lie on the floor with your head facing up under the dash and work the clutch pedal if you can , make sure you have a decent torch so you can see what is going on....If thats the problem its an easy fix-cheap too...I also had to put in a new clutch master cylinder as well...Whether or not this caused the initial problem I dont know, But it was cheap and easy to do as well

Edited by GTR-32U

Ohh and I forgot to ask the next part of the question, so is this real urgent? How much would it usually cost to get this fixed? Or do i need to get a new clutch asap?

Only asking cuz a bit short on cash this week and if I can put it off without having the clutch shitting itself within a week or two then it'd be great..

Cheers

Calvz

Crackling noise maby spigot bush is worn not sure see the reason I'm guessing is my mate had his clutch replaced (bakyard job) and the installer couldn't get the spigot bush out so they left it.. (i know..tools) but yeh the noise got worse work shop says "doesn't sound good at all ..." told him didnt replace the spigot and he goes thats prolly it...

now the peddle not coming back up ... put it this way.. u blow ur clutch the clutch peddle will stick right down lol so maby its on its way... now im not 1000% but yeah just from some small experience its all i can think of...

thank you for the thought and is much appreciated.. That could be the reason so will take that into consideration too

Is the creaking noise coming from inside the car ( Or seems like it is ?) As I had a similar experience with an R32..Turned out the pedal box broke a spot weld and eventually pedal fell to the floor...Lie on the floor with your head facing up under the dash and work the clutch pedal if you can , make sure you have a decent torch so you can see what is going on....If thats the problem its an easy fix-cheap too...I also had to put in a new clutch master cylinder as well...Whether or not this caused the initial problem I dont know, But it was cheap and easy to do as well

hey mate, cheers for reply..

Yes sound is coming (or seems like it is coming) from pedal area.. And it spuds like I am experiencing what u hae experienced in the past.. I hope that is the problem cuz like u said it's easy and cheap, and that's music to my ears! :banana: thank you.. And if ure still reading this thread, how long before te pedal fell onto the floor? And was it a DIY or time to visit the mechanics?

Cheers

Calvz

sounds like pedal box to me, have same creaking noise in my S13, ive replaced a clutch pedal box before in a r33 and took me 15-20 mins, 4 nuts/bolts you gotta undo in total, its a piece of cake, just hard to get to the very top bolt under the dash (2 nuts on your master cylinder you gotta undo, and 2 under you dash that hold the pedal box), with a few extensions on your ratchet you'll get the very top nut/bolt. Thought ill write it up just in case hahaha

sounds like pedal box to me, have same creaking noise in my S13, ive replaced a clutch pedal box before in a r33 and took me 15-20 mins, 4 nuts/bolts you gotta undo in total, its a piece of cake, just hard to get to the very top bolt under the dash (2 nuts on your master cylinder you gotta undo, and 2 under you dash that hold the pedal box), with a few extensions on your ratchet you'll get the very top nut/bolt. Thought ill write it up just in case hahaha

Thanks for the reply.. Yerr I hope it is just that cuz that does sound easy enough to fix. Wandering why the pedal wouldn't bounce back up to it's full original position if it is pedal box problem, or maybe that is what's supposed to happen and maybe that how u can tell u need a new pedal.. Hmm anyway I gotta check that our today.. Thanks for ur help

Calvz

The problem can be any of the things mentioned above. There are so many components to the system that it is very hard to determine an exact cause.

Usually a cracked pedal box will cause a clicking sound rather than a creaking sound as the two broken metal pieces click past each other. The pedal getting stuck half way can be caused by a broken pedal box when they get really bad but usually you won't be able to pull it up again with your foot because the reason it is getting stuck there is because the pedal box is bent.

It could have a hydraulic problem and the hardness in the pedal can be due to one of the cylinders becoming stuck or blocked. Check the fluid level to see if you have lost any fluid. Check by removing the lid as sometimes the master cylinder can appear full because the fluid will leave a stain.

Get someone to press the clutch pedal in and out while you crouch in the passenger side to see if the noise is definitely coming from inside the car. Then jack up the car and listen underneath. You will soon identify the location. Once you know the location of the noise, you will have a better idea of where to start your repairs.

If the noise is 100% coming from the pedal area, then the clutch is most likely fine

If the noise is coming from the gearbox area, then it will have to come out. Before removing it, you could try greasing the slave cylinder push rod where it touches the throwout fork to see if that is the cause also.

You may have a combination of a few different problems, creaking push rod, leaking cylinder, cracked pedal box all at the same time, check everything over thoroughly before taking on a largish job like removal of gearbox.

The problem can be any of the things mentioned above. There are so many components to the system that it is very hard to determine an exact cause.

Usually a cracked pedal box will cause a clicking sound rather than a creaking sound as the two broken metal pieces click past each other. The pedal getting stuck half way can be caused by a broken pedal box when they get really bad but usually you won't be able to pull it up again with your foot because the reason it is getting stuck there is because the pedal box is bent.

It could have a hydraulic problem and the hardness in the pedal can be due to one of the cylinders becoming stuck or blocked. Check the fluid level to see if you have lost any fluid. Check by removing the lid as sometimes the master cylinder can appear full because the fluid will leave a stain.

Get someone to press the clutch pedal in and out while you crouch in the passenger side to see if the noise is definitely coming from inside the car. Then jack up the car and listen underneath. You will soon identify the location. Once you know the location of the noise, you will have a better idea of where to start your repairs.

If the noise is 100% coming from the pedal area, then the clutch is most likely fine

If the noise is coming from the gearbox area, then it will have to come out. Before removing it, you could try greasing the slave cylinder push rod where it touches the throwout fork to see if that is the cause also.

You may have a combination of a few different problems, creaking push rod, leaking cylinder, cracked pedal box all at the same time, check everything over thoroughly before taking on a largish job like removal of gearbox.

Wow you are the man in the know! Really appreciate that reply.. Now I can do what u have mentioned above before I make a trip to the mechanics.. Thanks heaps dude.. Really appreciate it..

Cheers,

Calvz :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
×
×
  • Create New...