Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i have left my car for a few months not needing to drive anywhere and not needing it for work so after around 4 months of sitting doing nothing its a no brainer the battery would be flat as a tack so i charged my battery up for about 26hours or more out of the car and then put the battery back in all accessories are working reds and all but as i turn the key i get a very rapid click click clicking and no start not even a crank.

Now im thinking maybe a relay or the battery is just stuffed what are your thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304407-r33-not-starting/
Share on other sites

yer just didnt wanan spend out $140 for a battery if its a $5 relay

but looks like thats what it is.

try get a new battery this week and then if problem still happening ill be back on here lol.

thanks dudes

yeah i would also say battery. just because you charged it doesn't mean that it is actually holding charge. however to test it all you need is a multimeter. also if you have a second car with a battery that you could put in it simply to see if it is the battery or the starter motor is another easy way to check without having to outlay the money for a new battery.

The clicking is the starter solenoid clicking in and out as the actual starter motor causes a massive drain on the available voltage.

Before you get a new battery, try jump starting the car. And if the starter solenoid does its clicking thing, try a direct application of battery power to the solenoid switch connection (make sure the transmission is in neutral, and handbrake on).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...