Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People,

As the topic states, Im looking at strengthing my diff to handle the conversion of the rb26 in it. Now the car previously was a rb25dett auto which is now a rb26dett with an r34gtt gearbox in it.

What i want to know is it worth taking it to a diff place and strengthing it or buying a new one.

Also what diff do i have in it if the car from factory was a R33 gtst 1996 s1.5 4door auto no hicas with abs(if that made a difference).

Also does anyone know good diff places in melbourne nothern suburbs such as epping,cambellfield, somerton, tullamarine, etc if people are recommending strengthing the diff???

Any help will be good.

Ray

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304515-change-diff-or-strengthen-it/
Share on other sites

I wouldn't be worried about breaking the diff, they're bloody tough, so you'll usually break something else before that goes.

Your question should be: will my viscous LSD centre be able to put the power down to the ground?

You won't know that until you go for your first drive, and see if it spins both wheels off the line.

Hi Fellas, thanks for the reply.

Both wheels spin most of the time but ive noticed a weird knock that comes in sometimes after a bit of trashing which disappears after a bit of easy driving. I have changed the oils so what would be the best way to go, kazz lsd 2 way or should i just get this diff fixed??? and if to get it fixed anyone got any recommendation on a diff shop????

I wouldn't waste any money on the standard VLSD, and an aftermarket 2 way is usually a fair amount of coin, unless you find one second hand.

A couple of better value options are:

The R32 GTR diff. It's a mechanical (clutch type) that is a good upgrade, but you will need to find someone wrecking a GTR, because you will also need the half shafts and rear hubs (as they are a larger diameter, and your half shafts wont bolt up).

The S15 Helical LSD, out of the manual turbo. It's a mechanical Helical centre, that has awesome reviews from everyone that uses one. As they are helical, they do not wear out like "clutch types" so it's a safer bet when buying second hand. They run 6 bolt half shafts, so you will need to get them as well to make it bolt up, but you won't need to replace the rear hubs (like when upgrading to the R32 GTR diff).

I have just purchased an S15 rear diff (with half shafts) for $250, so it's a pretty cost effective upgrade. It also comes with a 3.7:1 ratio, so if you stick with that it will effectively make your gears all 10% taller. I'm going to try it with that, and see how it goes (as I find first gear too short in my car, and am also looking forward to saving some fuel by cruising at lower revs in 5th). But worst case, if I don't like it I can swap the crown wheel and pinion from my old diff back into it, and run the old 4.1:1 ratio.

Edited by Ryno

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...