Jump to content
SAU Community

Aircon Intermittently Works

fib

By fib,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

fib Community Regular

fib

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

The r33 gtr aircon seems to have a mind of its own.

At first it would shut off after 5 minute of operation, I took it to auto electrician they changed one of the thermostats. This did not solve the problem. My heater was disabled because the guy said the heater was cutting in making it warm. This made it work the entire duration of when I can get it to turn on.

Now the problem is that sometimes I cannot get the aircon to turn on. Took it back to him for the 5th time... he hit the auto button afew times and listened to the compressor turning on. It worked that time... but sometimes I cannot get it to turn on at all. Who enjoys sitting in a 40 degree car, hitting the auto button on and off hoping that the aircon would work? Also, when I'm already driving and decide I want aircon there is no way for me hear that confirmatory click of the compressor so I'd wait and wait hoping for the aircon to come on but no luck at times.

I have given up on this auto electrician guy, not only has he disabled my heater but now sometimes I cannot even de-mist my windows with the aircon.

What's going on here? Is it the climate control screwing up?

Any help appreciated,

fibbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304549-aircon-intermittently-works/
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...
BarbsGTR Enthusiast

BarbsGTR

Posted
Posted

did you get a resolution to this mate...

Hi guys,

The r33 gtr aircon seems to have a mind of its own.

At first it would shut off after 5 minute of operation, I took it to auto electrician they changed one of the thermostats. This did not solve the problem. My heater was disabled because the guy said the heater was cutting in making it warm. This made it work the entire duration of when I can get it to turn on.

Now the problem is that sometimes I cannot get the aircon to turn on. Took it back to him for the 5th time... he hit the auto button afew times and listened to the compressor turning on. It worked that time... but sometimes I cannot get it to turn on at all. Who enjoys sitting in a 40 degree car, hitting the auto button on and off hoping that the aircon would work? Also, when I'm already driving and decide I want aircon there is no way for me hear that confirmatory click of the compressor so I'd wait and wait hoping for the aircon to come on but no luck at times.

I have given up on this auto electrician guy, not only has he disabled my heater but now sometimes I cannot even de-mist my windows with the aircon.

What's going on here? Is it the climate control screwing up?

Any help appreciated,

fibbo.

conan7772 Mentor

conan7772

Posted
Posted

I wish someone would make an aftermarket climate control unit for the R33.

Cause they are total rubbish. :D

Mine is either Hot as hell or freezing- have to keep turning it on and off to keep the cabin comfortable.

Also all my gas is gone come every November and can't find the leak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...