Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello to everyone on Skylines Australia!

I/My friend will be needing you guys now as my friend just purchased a R33 last night!

The car is in very good mint condision, Manual, only 130,000kms, so many reciepts its not even funny, car is running 200rwKw at the moment at 7psi.

We bought the car and boosted for about 50Kms arround town.

We came on boost and held it all the way to about 6,000 rpm.

After a while we start to smell Clutch (you know..), and 30 minutes after the car isnt moving anymore, or i should say very very slowly due to the clutch slipping.

So I guess the Clutch is gone? What do we have to do te get it fixed? How much will it cost? and I guess this time we want a GOOD clutch.

The only explanation to me is when the car was producing its peak power arround 6,000rpm the clutch could not handle that amout of power, and burt.. You think?

Ill post pictures up soon!

Thanks for the help Guys!!

Mati

You are probably looking at about 400 in labour from a workshop + the cost of a replacement clutch.

if it is still running the standard turbo you will be fine to replace it with a heavy duty organic one or if you just want to make it more of a pain to drive in traffic you can get a button clutch instead.

Clutches generally go under heavy load... at 6000rpm in the right gear, there isnt actually much load on the clutch.

Go out on the highway, and stomp on it in a taller gear, and that will generally apply alot more load causing the clutch to slip.

In your case the clutch does sound fried tho, but its a very quick death. Are you sure you didnt try to do a line locky and smoke the clutch instead of the tires

All we did was just drive the car normaly, no drifting, no burnouts.

All we did is just Boost, in all gears we gave it some nice boost and had fun.

Clutch was always fully out, and wwe reved to about 6-7000..

So why did the clutch decide to die?

At the start when we smelled clutch we reved to 6000rpm and then it went way to quickly to 7000.

So now the clutch is dead.

If we get a button clutch whats the difference?

We want a GOOD clutch. and where can we buy it?

Ok thanks for that guys.

So what is a good clutch I should get? Something that will last... you know.

And is there any chance i could do the install at home, or should i leave it to the garage?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...