Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Iv had my Skyline for a few months now and since owning have noticed the engine feels rough between 2500-4000rpm. It sort of feels like it is out of balance or something. Just wandering if this is normal for the RB25 or do i have problems. Car runs perfect besides this and its just got me a bit worried. Cheers

Being the paranoid type, i got a 100k service done on mine not long after i got it.

Go to somewhere with at good rep like Trojan, ESP or Autotech that actually work on skylines; not just some guy who thinks that all cars are the same.

They will be able to sort out your problems and will actually know what they are talking about.

Just my 2.2c (inc GST)

Well all bolts are tight. Donnan i would take the car somewhere like that to get checked but i really dont have the cash at the moment. The car has 92,000kms on it so will have to take it somewhere in the next year to get the 100,000 service anyway. Hopefully its nothing major and will last till then.

Sounds like it could be a faulty CAS (Crank Angle Sensor)... I had the same problem with my RB25

To check if it is the CAS get someone with an identical RB motor to lend you their sensor, plug it in and if it fixes the miss-fire or rough revs then order one from Just Jap or another Japanese wrecker (dont get one from Nissan unless you want to pay through the @ss for it).

Start by checking the CAS, then if thats not it, move on to coil packs or ignitor.

(By the way - the CAS is the big round metal thing held in by 3 bolts on the front of the motor.)

Let us know how you go. :(

Hmmm ok any volunteers want to lend me there CAS so i can check to see if this is the problem. Or is there a way to test it with a multimeter or something, also if it was the CAS would it come up as a fault code because the ECU says no fault recorded?

Is there no-one kind enough to lend a fellow Skyliner a hand when they're in a tight spot??

I'm happy to lend you mine, but it comes with a catch... If it breaks while it's on your engine, you buy me a new one. :P

OK?

Is there no-one kind enough to lend a fellow Skyliner a hand when they're in a tight spot??

I'm happy to lend you mine, but it comes with a catch... If it breaks while it's on your engine, you buy me a new one. :)

OK?

After speaking with a professional about this, I'm afraid I have to withdraw my offer... There are too many variables with your problem :ermm:

Speak to Angelo at Trojan Motorsport about getting a working second hand CAS (they have a lot of spares on the shelf) = 6242 6277

Tell them that Mick from Federal sent you :D

After speaking with a professional about this, I'm afraid I have to withdraw my offer... There are too many variables with your problem :(

Speak to Angelo at Trojan Motorsport about getting a working second hand CAS (they have a lot of spares on the shelf) = 6242 6277

Tell them that Mick from Federal sent you :(

Hey mate thanks for your help and advise I will try and bring the car past there in the next 2 weeks, but with work at the moment its hard to bring it there during the day. The more i try to work out what it is myself the more i think it might not be the engine, its almost like the flywheel is out of balance or something :worship:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...