Jump to content
SAU Community

Got my new car, looking for some help / a workshop.


Recommended Posts

I picked up my R33 GTS-T yesterday and I have two weeks to clean it of its defects before I have to take it to Sturt / Regency to be registered.

Can any of you recommend a workshop in South Australia (preferably not in the northern suburbs) to assist in correcting these defects? Most are fairly straight forward (BOV, pillar gauges, etc), but I know effectively nothing about cars. I will also have to buy / borrow some factory parts, such as pedals and a gear knob.

I also want to have the fuel pump looked at, as it's making noises and may be causing an erratic engine idle.

Similarly, if there are any workshops that I should stay away from, please PM me.

I'll put up some pics. soon and hopefully I'll meet some of you on cruises etc. in the not too distant future.

Thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...

If you are after stock parts, try D1 Garage or JMS.

I have always found tilbrooks quite accomodating, I wanted to dial in my cams, spoke to them yesterday, they are doing it thursday. All the work I have seen come out of their is absolutely first rate, and they know skylines inside out and back to front.

Are you getting the car complied? or just defects removed so you can register it?

As far as I know, I only need the HKS air pod and HKS BOV removed. Other than that, I can do the pedals, gauges, etc. myself.

The car only has to go through Sturt and the purpose of the inspection is primarily to see if the car is or has been stolen, so hopefully they'll pass the car if I take off the obvious defects. If not, I'll be off to regency.

Do any of you have a number for Tilbrooks? All I can find is Tilbrook Brake Services.

As far as I know, I only need the HKS air pod, the HKS BOV and the Greddy turbo timer removed. Other than that, I can do the pedals, gauges, etc. myself.

The car only has to go through Sturt and the purpose of the inspection is primarily to see if the car is or has been stolen, so hopefully they'll pass the car if I take off the obvious defects. If not, I'll be off to Regency.

Do any of you have a number for Tilbrooks? All I can find is Tilbrook Brake Services.

my car got through regency with the HKS pod, it is bolted down and shielded (they were in a good mood i guess)

hide the turbo timer under the dash (and turn it off)where you cant see it unless you pull apart the panels

you should be able to do the changes your self

I haven't worked out how to turn my timer properly off. It switches itself on whenever I start the car.

And the car must go through Sturt or Regency before I can register it in South Australia. I did a stolen vehicle check on it before I bought it and it's all good.

Has anybody actually taken a car through Sturt for this kind of inspection? Some people are saying that they will pass it even with the BOV, etc. if the VIN, engine numbers, etc. are all there. Others aren't so confident. Can any of you give first hand advice?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...