Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry if this is abit of a noob questioni guys

ive been reading up abit on power modifications, bolt on mods mainly not keen on cracking open the engine. ( r32 gtst rb20)

just wondering, everyone is saying get a different turbo, i think mine has a vg30, but alot of people are saying get a hks 2530, and all different things.

there is this but im just wondering.

what is the difference between running a rb20 stock turbo, a vg30 turbo or a hks 2530 turbo all running the same boost pressure, 12psi for example. apart from the obvious spool time

will the hks produce more power/torque with the same boost? if yes why?

also if you had a grand to spend on an rb20 to make a fair bit more power without running too much boost and keeping standard engine managment what mods would you do? it already has a front mount, pod, free flowing exhuast, bosch fuel pump.

cheers

Alex,

Airflow - simple as that.

A turbo just flows air. Bigger turbo's, flow more air. More air = more power.

So thats the basic part.

However there is a consideration and that is the efficiency of the turbo. Larger turbos generally require you to run more pressure to get into the efficient area of the turbo so that you see the benefit of using them.

EG a HKS2530 you wouldn't put on and run 12psi. It'll probably make 170rwkw. They shine closer to 16-20psi and will make around 230rwkw.

So running the same boost one turbo from another, sometimes, won't give you much power if at all. You need to run the turbo where it is efficient to make the most of it.

VG30 turbo's seem to not be useful past about 16psi, and RB20 turbos about 10-14psi.

www.hotstuffworks.com or use google. Plenty of websites around that will go into much further details.

cheers, makes sense i guess.

i was thinking of upping boost to 14psi, atm it runs about 10-11 according to the cheap boost guage.

if i did this would it be safe, or should i up fuel pressure aswell?

fair enough, so no gains can be had from under the bonnet tuneing, eg boost, fuel pressure, ignition timeing?

would a power fc be a worthy investment? how easy are these to play around with for a DIYer

pressure does not equal volume

thats why one turbo makes more power

think of a car tyre at 40psi

then think of a bike tyre at 40psi

then think of a truck tyre at 40psi

now its obvious to us that the truck tyre has more air volume inside it, ie more air, but the same pressure

so its possible for a compressor wheel whilst it has the same pressure in the pipe work / engine, that it flows more air

the more air the engine has, the more power it makes

read the PFC FAQ in my signature for info the on the PFC and how to use it

the PFC is amazing to tune on any car, even a stock mild GTST , the results are amazing once fully tuned

my car still has basic mods intercooler, exhaust, clutch, tyres, fuel pump, boost controll and aggressive PFC tune, it drives amazingly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...