Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Try this joint

Company: Boss Automotive Engineering

Address: PO Box 403

Unit 5, 4 Scarborough Way Lonsdale South Australia 5160

Telephone: +61 8 8 387 0178

If you want the car to still drive nice for daily driving keep the LSD. I have a 2 way in my skyline and its pretty annoying for normal street driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306146-shimmed-diff/#findComment-5062599
Share on other sites

Try this joint

Company: Boss Automotive Engineering

Address: PO Box 403

Unit 5, 4 Scarborough Way Lonsdale South Australia 5160

Telephone: +61 8 8 387 0178

If you want the car to still drive nice for daily driving keep the LSD. I have a 2 way in my skyline and its pretty annoying for normal street driving.

thanks mate i will try them im local which makes it easier

Shimmed diff, you can get one in My Garage.

or depending on price how much ya want for one?

cheers Morris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306146-shimmed-diff/#findComment-5063195
Share on other sites

I was going to say around the $200 mark and you supply the oil. Anything with HICAS though will be more as they are a bitch to get out, or you can just bring me the diff itself and it'll be $200.

EDIT!! Chad you'd want yours pretty much locked wouldn't you?

Edited by D_Stirls
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306146-shimmed-diff/#findComment-5063248
Share on other sites

I was going to say around the $200 mark and you supply the oil. Anything with HICAS though will be more as they are a bitch to get out, or you can just bring me the diff itself and it'll be $200.

yeah its for a 33 with hicas lock bar

not intending to take diff out myself rather drop off and pick up car lol easier.

wanting it pretty tight too wanting to track my car and "drive" it on the street

ill let you know mate. how much extra for you to take it out and do it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306146-shimmed-diff/#findComment-5063776
Share on other sites

i had the great idea of getting my diff shimmed till i found out that i had the Active LSD "A-LSD" in my 33 which is a weird thing......

so next best idea....get the inners off a Kazz 2-way and get boss automotive to put it in my diff casing with new clutches :P

should be good

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306146-shimmed-diff/#findComment-5065746
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hot tip, stop picking at shit. Live in bliss instead   From my recent experience in rust repairs, white it may seem to not go much further back, you'll still need to cut back a bit further.  From what I can see there, the outer skin, and the inner is rusted too. From what I can see you've got the inner one which is all structural, and window likely affixes too.   If tag Murray Calavera here, but my phone won't let me tag him, he'd probably be able to give the best advise.   I do know, welding roof panels is a right pain in the bollocks! Very heavy to heat distort the roof and warp it all.
    • Some of the filler.   Also if I look under the top flap of metal it starts looking good quite close to the edge. I get the feeling it doesn't go much further.
    • So, I finally started digging at the bit of my roof that was cracking and bulging a bit. Well, it was just thick filler that was covering some pretty bad rust. I didn't find the edges, I was too bummed to keep going.  There are a few holes as you can see. There was just so much filler but looks like no attempt under the filler to prime or use rust converter, just slapped filler on exposed rust.  Anyway, I'm going to take the windshield out and find the edges. I'd love to fix this myself as I'm pretty sure it'll be expensive to get done properly. I was thinking I could just get a cut piece from another E39 and just weld it in place as it would be the right size and shape.  Thoughts?
    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
×
×
  • Create New...