Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-27999-1264935004_thumb.jpg

1995 33GTR

black

130,000k

stock

apexi pods

hks dragster exhaust

tein supperstreets adjustable coilover purchase new just a few month ago. with tops

18 gunmetal xd9+few month old tyres

very clean interior.

clean body

clean paint.

engine+box in very good condition

oil+filter change every 5000k. motul 4100

spark plugs changed ngk.

fuel filter changed.

greedy turbo timer

tinted windows

alarm/immo

overall very good car. just time to get a house.

23k FIRM if sold by this month. very good price

if you dont have money then dont bother wasting my time.

no test pilots.

please pm first. i'm sick of people calling and offering stupid price like 20k CASH, if your not going to pay with money then what the hell do you want to pay with.. -.-

thanks

Edited by bokie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306270-95-33gtr-black-23k-firm/
Share on other sites

True, true. I had to sacrifice my immaculate 06 STI to get into the the 34. Regardless of how neat it was 90% of people would always say that it wasn't cheapest they could find - wtf skimping on a temperamental sports car!?

It will sell when someone who is genuinely after a neat 33R at a decent price sees it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...