Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 2 sets of RB26 rods for sale.

"CARRILLO" CNC machined from 4340 chome moly forgings. (A lightweight rod)

At the factory they are heat treated, then magnaflux inspected and hardness checked, then machined to final size. Each set of rods is balanced and then shot peened to achieve the ultimate in strength and fatigue properties. The rod bolts are the multiphase SPS-CARR units. These rod bolts have a design tensile strength of 285,000 PSI and are designed to be a non-replacement type fastener. These are low kilometer rods with a replacement value of $3600 for sale at $1900. (Available now)

RB26 std. rods from a 16000km R33 GTR v-spec. $600. (Available in Feb.)

Phillip

[email protected]

0409573124

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30679-rb26-carrillo-rods/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

If the Carrillos are 21mm gudgeon pin size (standard), then I'll give you $1000 for them.

Question: If the rod bolts are a "non-replacement type fastener" does that mean that they're useless to the buyer or did you buy new ones to sell with the rods?

edit: oh, and why do you have "Carrillo" in inverted commas? Are they genuine Carrillos or not?

non-replacement type fastener......last a life time....don't have to replace at every rebuild.

285,000psi bolts....ARP from memory is only 100,000psi.

Gen. Carrillo.....Carrillo make the rods for HKS...but the Carrillo are shotpeen prior to machining....Carrillo, HKS, Tomie are all H-beam, most others are only I-beam.

You get what you pay for.

$1500 is the best I am willing to do.

May take trade however......clutch, cam kit, etc.

I assume that all the rods are in perfect condition? No warping or damage?

Have you weighted all the rods? Are they still all still balanced?

Have you attacked them with verniers and made sure there is no stretching around the either end (big end and gudgeon pin end)?

It's a little hard to do this with second hand parts considering we're in different states and I can't get my hands on them to measure them...

Would you be able to take close ups of all the rods?

Why did you remove them from your engine?

email me: andrew at andrewho dot com

It has been my experience that Carrillo make the best conrods, bar none. I have never had a Carrillo rod fail and we have used them in some extreme stuff. If I was building a strong RB26 or RB25, these are the rods I would choose.

For the price GTR STI is selling them you could not buy better. Hi Merli, jump on a cheap Virgin and go and look at them, it's worth it.

Hey SK...

Thanks for confirming what I thought... I knew that Carrillos are excellent rods, and definitely WELL beyond the power levels I'm aiming for, but it's always good to have overheads built in :(

Unfortunately I don't have time to fly upto Brissy anytime soon...

Phillip: Are you willing to send them to me, pending my getting them checked out and measured? If they're all fine, I'll take them for $1500. I can give Chris (doughboy) the money to hold as an escrow if you feel more comfortable with that, but rest assured I'm good for it :( I'm not about to rip anybody off over some conrods :)

Thanks again Sydneykid.

Let me know what you think Phillip,

Andrew.

Shouldn't it really go by the timestamp of the post? If I had known you'd check your PM's first, I wouldn't have bothered with posting in your actual For Sale Thread, which is the correct forum for discussion is it not?

If Sebaz sent his PM first, then I have no qualms, but if my post at 11:22pm yesterday was first, that's quite unfair.

Sorry Merli,

I'm as fair as they come.

Working up in Wepia at the moment....two people had rang my home in Brisbane...prior to your post.

But by the sounds of it SEBAZ may have a set of other rods for sale soon.

Give him a PM.

have fun....it's alway raining here.

Phil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...