Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today i got the call from the head shop and my head is warped to no avail. So the car is up for sale, as is because i cant be bothered.

Everything on the car is stock, and the car is 100% STRAIGHT! interior is VERY CLEAN & UN-MOLESTERED - i've owned the car for 6 years, before that its owner was my brother-in-law, who imported it in 1999/2000. with 30k on the clock.

The car has:

- 4x 6k old Nitrogen filled Maxxis mid-range sport tires.

- Brand new 52mm ALUMINIUM radiator. (more on this later)

- New Timing belt (not installed).

- New head gasket (not installed).

- Nice muffler from japan (not a cannon) - installed)

- Clean interior

- Straight body

- NO CRASHES

- All 4 corners have STOCK suspension which is firm & makes no noises!

- Gearbox is perfect, no syncro wear.

Car had a recent ROADWORTHY because i was thinking of selling before the overheating, car passed perfectly except for FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHES - which i got changed then and there!

So when a new engine is in (or new head) - (BLOCK IS PERFECT) - then car will easily pass a roadworthy. (ofcourse the new engine will need certification from your mechanic/engineer - but they can do this as part of your RWC.)

Aircon is PERFECT! recently rehauled before summer, ran GREAT as i had it re-conditioned, but had to bleed because i took the engine apart.

STORY;

I was driving home from autobarn and the car overheated, so i pulled over and found the stock radiator top pipe had cracked (plastic) so i reattached pipe, filled with coolant and off i went, everything was fine...

On another local trip, almost home car started overheating again and the radiator top completely broke and i had the car towed home. From there i thought maybe the thermostat wasnt working, sticking, thats why it intermittently overheated, so i removed it and grabbed a new radiator (Aluminum one) & installed this, bled coolant into the system, then went for a drive... the needle only just came off COLD and stayed there no matter what - so water pump was good, radiator was good, but soo large and without a thermostat, ran too cold.

But from there excess pressure built up in the coolant system, and my mechanic and i came to the conclusion the head gasket is gone or the head is cracked/warped - the overheating was due to a sticking thermostat.

So i got down to business, low & behold, the head is warped due to overheating, and causing exhaust gas to enter the coolant system...

So.. after that novel, i require a new head & thermostat and the car is like new again... but after all this i really cant be bothered...

OUTCOME;

I want to sell it AS IS - that is NO RWC and NO REGO.

You come and pick-it up on a trailer and its gone.

I will happily put the engine back together so its easier to transport.

Car will come without a radio.

Car will come WITH the new head gasket, timing belt & new aluminum radiator.

PRICE;

I want $5500 and take it away, a good NA engine is $500 on here, plus the work of changing just the short motor, isnt much for the mechanically minded and a few friends OR just get your trusted mechanic to do it.

Remember the car is STRAIGHT, NO CRASHES, INTERIOR IS VERY TIDY, AND WAS IS IN ROADWORTHY CONDITION (as of 2 weeks ago) BAR THE ENGINE... you are not buying a thrashed lemon, the car was well taken care of and serviced. With a new engine, this car will outlive most NA R33s.

Matt - 0419116318 - Dont hesitate to call.

post-15800-1265677329_thumb.jpg

post-15800-1265677499_thumb.jpg

@MYSTRM

- Hey there, thanks for the offer, but i dont have that much to put on top to get your car.

@green1via

- Sounds pretty good, can you give me more info on the Cefiro? condition, k's, working order?... also do you mean you'll chuck cash my way or you want cash your way?

@MYSTRM

- Hey there, thanks for the offer, but i dont have that much to put on top to get your car.

@green1via

- Sounds pretty good, can you give me more info on the Cefiro? condition, k's, working order?... also do you mean you'll chuck cash my way or you want cash your way?

No worries, good luck with sale

cheers

Thanks MYSTRM, good luck with finding a nice NA.

@curlyjimbo

- The cost to fix overheating is a new thermostat and a new head.. thats it. everything else i have and will come with the car.

im pretty sure on here you can find a NA head for $150-$400 bucks? so my loss is your gain.

Matty

Thanks MYSTRM, good luck with finding a nice NA.

@curlyjimbo

- The cost to fix overheating is a new thermostat and a new head.. thats it. everything else i have and will come with the car.

im pretty sure on here you can find a NA head for $150-$400 bucks? so my loss is your gain.

Matty

Is there something I'm missing?

+ Would it be hard to get a RWC on it since it's not running yet?

Is there something I'm missing?

+ Would it be hard to get a RWC on it since it's not running yet?

In what sense? i just dont have the time to fix it, it'll be worth more to fix and sell, but i dont have the time.

And getting a roadworthy now would be impossible, because it wont start.. you'd have to get a new head OR new engine, then it'll get a RWC really easy.

So if I were to pay for the parts/work needed to be done to get the car in good working order so it could be registered, would you know roughly how much money we're looking at realistically?

and some more pics would be great!

Thanks.

So if I were to pay for the parts/work needed to be done to get the car in good working order so it could be registered, would you know roughly how much money we're looking at realistically?

and some more pics would be great!

Thanks.

What pics are you interested in? i can take some and post.

And if going the new head route... getting the new head (150-400), having it shaved ($100), new head bolts ($?) then all you gotta do is the new head gasket (supplied), torque head down, reattach exhaust and intake, new timing belt, harmonic balancer, intake piping, replace thermostat, fit radiator, then fill rad, and the car is ready to get its roadworthy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...