Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone rebuilt their own carby before?

I have had some carby building pro's tell me that my triple Dellortos are full of crap, and they have quoted upwards of $1,600 to rebuild and tune them. They've warned me that if I have a go at doing it myself (at about a tenth of the cost) I'll get it all wrong and will come crawling back to them anyway (and with no experience to my name they may well be right.)

I can buy complete, new triple webers on a Datsun manifold for around $1700, but they wont be jetted to suit my car, so there will still be some additional expenses tuning them.

At this stage I am tempted to buy a book and some gasket kits and have a go myself. Any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308014-dellorto-rebuild/
Share on other sites

I can point you to the man who kept my webers on my datto and many others carbs running perfect-

Randy at Nissco: www.nissco.com.au

Address:

Nissco 1600 Workshop

2 Halbert Road

Bayswater North, Victoria 3153

Melways Reference - 51 : B10

Phone:

(03) 9761 4743

Fax:

(03) 9761 4005

International:

+61 3 9761 4743

Email:

[email protected]

Open six days a week.

Hi.

The dellorto and weber are a fixed jet carby so relatively easy to maintain. If they are dirty and you are not sure of doing the job remember they are two identical barrels so take out the jets on one side and you still have the other side for reference. These carbys are not hard to work on.. One point to think about the Dellorto is no longer made . .

If you are not confident take them to the man mentioned above.

I know and trust Randy, but he is way over on the other side of town... Still for the final tuning and jetting he probably is worth the drive.

Thanks for the heads up about doing 1 side at a time. Although the Dellorto carby bodies are no longer made, there is still a bunch of Dellorto parts being bandied around ebay... I'm getting more excited about pulling them apart myself.

If you are still going to Hanging Rock tomorrow, come and find me (at NDSOC group), we can discuss.

Basically, I wouldn't expect the cleaning part to be that hard, tuning is the bugger bit.

Never worked on a carby before; but if you feel like having a go I'd spend the $160 and do it. Worste case is you muck it up and have to go 'crawling back' and it costs you $1760 - best case is it costs you $160 and you feel like a champ!

Birth... that is such a cracking point. So far I haven't found any posts saying "leave the rebuild to the pros," and like you said, if I do botch it, being $160 out isn't exactly a disaster. What's more, if I get it right, it'll free up a bigger budget for jetting/tuning (a job I am more than happy to leave to a pro) and other miscellaneous parts and repairs.

Further, most 'pros' don't care about you or their car - they are like anyone else who is at work thinking about going home and doing other things. I generally ask myself if their training / experience will offset their lathargy. In most cases I would prefer to muck stuff up for free rather than pay someone else to muck it up for me!

Funny you should say. The last carby specialist (he did nothing but carbys) I went to talked me into a big dollar rebuild of my SUs, and when the car didn't run right told me it had to be an ignition issue. I took the car to Nissco to have a look and the thing was running so rich the O2 sensor went right off the scale.

I had to go back and ask the carby guy (despite wanting to tell him go to hell) to sort out his first attempt, but not before I had dropped $400 into a completely unnecessary ignition upgrade!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...