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hey guys

iv been trying to work this problem iv been having,

iv relocated my battery to the boot using 4gauge cable and made a new ground in the boot

im also running 2 amps, 2 subs and 4 speakers

now it seems my battery isnt fully charging, iv got 13v at the battery, 13v at the alternator and 13v at the distribution block up front

and 14v when running from all area measured

now im thinking i need to up the size of the 4 gauge to either 0 or 2 gauge cable, but it measures

but i dont no heaps about electrics

i also notice when i turn my stereo system off the car starts alot easier

can anyone help??

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how do you know the battery isnt charging fully ? it may show voltage on the battery but have weak cells, not able to provide current when needed

battery brand, model, power ratings, how old ???? photo of setup ????

is it grounded at the engine block, to the front inner guard using a large bolt, no paint under it ?

and the ground in the rear by the battery the same as in the front ?

what amps are you running ?

use 0 gauge to the front of the car if you can afford it, and the grounds need to match the gauge as well, crimp and solder all joints using the proper tool, not the little cheesy crimpers, but the bolt cutter size or the hammer smash one to crimp then solder to seal off the rest of the hole and make it look clean,

you also should be running a completely sealed battery in the boot or house in a vented enclosure, very dangerous and NOT ADR legal if you don't.

you should turn off all accessories before shutting off the car, it makes it safer to start without blowing fusable links and easier on the starter, more current available is better

im running a dry cell battery from the group buy,

its pretty much new, iv grounded my battery to the rear strut tower and sanded the paint off before hand

im guna upgrade to 0 gauge cable tommorrow and see how i go, my multimeter on measures amp in AC, but i was still able to tell iv got a drop in amperage

try DC volts,, not AC which is for houses etc.

the strut tower isnt the best spot it can be isolated underneath with thin rubber gasket to stop vibrations and of course the whole suspension is in rubber ?

try a bolt, like a seat belt or a dedicated bolt that isnt sunk into the fuel tank. and at least the same size as a shocker bolt.which is preferred over a exsiting bolt, and use a locking washer on it and fender washer as well.

you didnt mention the grounds in front where the current /charging is at ? or the charge wire from the alternator to the disto block to the rear ?

the group buy power cells are underrated computer UPS batteries. and it doesnt matter my 400+ dollar 1200cca odessy died for no reason after a few months, dead cell would drop voltage under any load at all.

if in doubt take your battery to a shop who can load test it to check for current holding ? also if you ran you battery flat or near flat it needs a special charger to top it back up, higher current one then a normal household model. and also check to see if your car leaks voltage when sitting off ?

yes i know AC is for house, i only used it as i dont have a DC multimeter to measure amps,

and i just had a look and i havnt sanded the paint where the earth is up front in the stock position

and thx for your help man

yes i know AC is for house, i only used it as i dont have a DC multimeter to measure amps,

and i just had a look and i havnt sanded the paint where the earth is up front in the stock position

and thx for your help man

FYI

most low cost DC multimeters can't measure AMP's without a shunt installed (beyond 10-20 amps inline until it fries the fuse inside)they measure voltage in parallel to the source(positive wire on battery to positive wire on meter , negative battery or ground to negative meter wire)

a clamp meter can measure AMP's(current draw) but you need a min,max, peak display to read properly under load

if you need more help let me know..your welcome

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