Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a rattle in the passenger side rear end , sounds like a blown shocky or loose rear strut , but it aint , because I've got new rear struts and I changed them myself and I know they aint loose.

It dosen't do it all the time but I can bring it on by giving it a bit if boot on a sharp lefthander as long as there is a bump in the road on the corner--you would be amazed at how many corners do have a bump in them.--or maybe not. :P

I've jacked up the back at both sides and can't get anything wobbling when tugged or bushes hanging out or obviously fraked.

Any ideas anyone ???

Oh yup ita an R34GTT.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308475-ass-end-rattle/
Share on other sites

I've got a rattle in the passenger side rear end , sounds like a blown shocky or loose rear strut , but it aint , because I've got new rear struts and I changed them myself and I know they aint loose.

It dosen't do it all the time but I can bring it on by giving it a bit if boot on a sharp lefthander as long as there is a bump in the road on the corner--you would be amazed at how many corners do have a bump in them.--or maybe not. :P

I've jacked up the back at both sides and can't get anything wobbling when tugged or bushes hanging out or obviously fraked.

Any ideas anyone ???

Oh yup ita an R34GTT.

after I up-specced my sway bar and exhaust I had the zaust swinging a little when turning and/or on a bumpy surface, so I got the occasional tap between the two. Solved the problem by getting some hi-temp silicon (rad pipe would do) and zippy tieing it on so that any clang is minimized... :P

try you'r zaust and bash it around next time it's up... see if that makes a noise....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308475-ass-end-rattle/#findComment-5090644
Share on other sites

after I up-specced my sway bar and exhaust I had the zaust swinging a little when turning and/or on a bumpy surface, so I got the occasional tap between the two. Solved the problem by getting some hi-temp silicon (rad pipe would do) and zippy tieing it on so that any clang is minimized... :D

try you'r zaust and bash it around next time it's up... see if that makes a noise....

Zorst AAAAAAAAARRRRGGGGGGGH :blink: gotta big oval 3.5" in and out Varex at the end of my system -culprit---I'm bettin' it is. Thanks mate.

KeeperPosted Yesterday, 05:50 PM checked the subframe mounting bushings??? look for crap dripping out of the front ones, looks like jelly.

Thanks for that-just checked and still dry as- no aeroplane atall- good call though I'll keep an eye on them as the front castor rods sprang a jelly not long ago so as the rear subby's are jelly too {which I didn't know)they may be going to follow suite :cool: .

Edited by BASHO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308475-ass-end-rattle/#findComment-5092241
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...