Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi gents!

i currently have an amp in my booty which is powering 2x 12" phoenix gold subs. they're not top of the range or anything - but, the amp is rewted badly and i need a replacement. it just came with the subs when i bought them off a mate and i'm guessing it's pretty sh1t anyway.

i was wondering if anyone can tell me what would actually be good to power these subs. there's heaps of information to read on powering 1 sub with an amp, but i've not come across anyone powering 2 subs with 1 amp. i have the rest of the system running off another (smaller) amp so i don't need to worry about that..!

do i just want a 2 channel amp? or a bridged 4 channel amp (is there even any point in that?!) i'm not even sure what power rating i need. some of them say "1000 watt high powered..." and are cheaper than something that says 250w. so i'm just a bit confused :Oops:

i somehow found some stats on it in case they are important:

Subwoofer Specifications

Size: 12 inch

Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 0.60 - 1.20 cu.ft.

Rec. Ported Box Dims: 2.00 - 2.60 cu.ft.

Free Air Usage: not recommended

Sensitivity: 90 dB

Frequency Response: n/a

Recommended RMS Power: 300W

Peak Power Handling: 600W

Impedance: 4 ohms

thanks for reading this far..

simon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30937-amp-suggestion-for-2x-12-subs/
Share on other sites

thanks for the info, makes it useful

whats ur budget?

my subs that i was using are similar, 4ohm and 300rms.

if u can afford it, get a monoblock and run the subs at 2ohms. this way u put more power into them, u run them in parallel instead of series.

this would be ur best option

the next would be a 2 channel, and bridging them to one channel (monoblock coming again..)

the last option, which i wouldnt recommend, is a 4 channel and bridging them to 2 channels, and running a sub off each channel. This would mean ur running each sub at 4ohm and most likely, underpowering the sub.

its better to overpower a sub and be careful with the gains.

what i got was a 2nd hand audison lrx.400 monoblock for $500. it puts out 400rms at 4ohms..but 650rms at 2 ohms. that means each sub is (was) getting 325rms.

things to look for when getting ur amp:

make sure its 2ohm stable if ur gonna do that.

look at the specs for 2ohms and not 4ohms if thats what ur gonna run it at. make sure these specs are for 12V not 14.4 or some other voltage that u cant produce.

dont look at max power on the subs or on the amp..it means nothing, only look for RMS at 12V.

hope i helped u a bit.

There are many amplifiers on the market that will run your two subs.

You will require an experienced audio buffoon to syphone through all the 'power figures hype' and give you the real answer.

Some of the amps I often install and remain big fans of are:

Audison LRx1.400 (RRP$899)

Audison VRx1.500 (RRP$1996)

Boston GT-28 (RRP$1399)

Zapco 1100M (RRP$1699)

Tru-Tech H-1 (RRP$2399)

There are others but without a budget it gets kind of hard... :P:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...