Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok long story short, I had to put my r33 back to stock because it was defected and sent for a DECC inspection. This meant that i had to remove the

- Pod filter

- high flow cat stainless exhaust, large cannon

- 2 stage Boost controller

- Front mount intercooler

to get it passed.

It ran horribly after those things were all taken off and replaced with stock parts.

Not last monday but the monday before i took the car back to a specialist performance mechanic who took the parts off, to get everything put back on, cause i finally got the car cleared.

BUT, they after they re-attached everything, they can't get the car to run properly, and i've been told its unsafe to drive in its current state and that i will need to buy an apexi power FC for 1.5k, or some other computer that they told me was like 3.5k new, cause they can't get the car to run properly. Thats not including time spent tuning it.

Are these guys messing with me? The car ran fine with the stock computer and all these mods before i got defected, i know cause I had it up over 180 and the thing was purring. Now they are afraid to put it on the DYNO cause they don't want to blow it up.

What the hell should i do?

Edited by phrensta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309602-r33-re-attached-mods-runs-horribly/
Share on other sites

edit out the workshop name for starters. Read the rules, its not allowed.

But more constructively. No, no need for a new ECU. Those mods are minimal.

Have you reset the factory ECU? (i tihnk its a case of disconnect the battery and hold the brake pedal down for 30 secs or so).

It might need to relearn a thing or two.

If that doesnt do it, take it to another workshop.

take it somewhere else for sure!

have you had a look over it yourself? its probably just something simple like a disconnected sensor or plumbing the boost controller up incorrectly.

what symptoms does the car have?

sounds like your mechanic is a dodgy motherf**ker who's trying to stooge you out of your hard earned. go elsewhere, for all we know they could have deliberately knocked the timing back or something so that you think it needs additional work done. I've seen that done before (timing retarded deliberately by workshop so that non technical person thinks their car needs "tuning")

sounds like your mechanic is a dodgy motherf**ker who's trying to stooge you out of your hard earned. go elsewhere, for all we know they could have deliberately knocked the timing back or something so that you think it needs additional work done. I've seen that done before (timing retarded deliberately by workshop so that non technical person thinks their car needs "tuning")

Gonna take it to specialist import mechanic on monday, 200$ for the DIAG though, just to tell me what this other guy has broken.

>:laugh:

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...