Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

had my skyline for a while now, its stock apart from front mount intercooler, split front dump pipe-full 3 inch exhaust, pod and boost controller. i have a power fc for it which i want to finally install and get tuned. i've allowed about 1000 bucks for tuning, (is this enough??) and im going to have a little bit of money left over, im thinking about getting a new fuel pump and a fuel pressure reg.

what do you guys think? would my extra money be better spent on different mods? and what sort of power output can i expect (roughly) with these mods? and also reccomend some tuners on the Coast/brisbane area, i'm thinking gavin wood-autotek.

any feedback would be greatly appreciated

cheers guys

Edited by bsd-gtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309642-r33-gtst-first-tune/
Share on other sites

matt spry PITS

mark - GODZILLA MOTORsport..

easily get it installed and tuned for 1k and will have lots left over..

awesome thanks mate,yeah ive met Matt before he seemed pretty cool, heard he's a bit picky with the cars he tunes though??

Hey mate I have pretty much the same mods and i took my power fc to mark at godzilla. he fitted and tuned it for about 500 bucks from memory. He is great to deal with and really knows his shit :D

thanks mate, yeah ive heard nothing but good things about that shop eh, that sort of price would be great too, what sort of power figure did you end up with??

yeah my pfc was installed and tuned by mark.. was $545, didnt wanna post a figure as yours may require more tuning or he may have put his price up (mine was couple yrs ago).. but still 1k easily and you don't need to worry.. he knows his stuff and will do an excellent job

yeah my pfc was installed and tuned by mark.. was $545, didnt wanna post a figure as yours may require more tuning or he may have put his price up (mine was couple yrs ago).. but still 1k easily and you don't need to worry.. he knows his stuff and will do an excellent job

really? thats sort of price sounds great, think il have to give him a call for sure eh, thanks mate

hey guys,

had my skyline for a while now, its stock apart from front mount intercooler, split front dump pipe-full 3 inch exhaust, pod and boost controller. i have a power fc for it which i want to finally install and get tuned. i've allowed about 1000 bucks for tuning, (is this enough??) and im going to have a little bit of money left over, im thinking about getting a new fuel pump and a fuel pressure reg.

what do you guys think? would my extra money be better spent on different mods? and what sort of power output can i expect (roughly) with these mods? and also reccomend some tuners on the Coast/brisbane area, i'm thinking gavin wood-autotek.

any feedback would be greatly appreciated

cheers guys

Should be able to get a fuel pump and tune for that price but make sure you got decent coil packs and spark plugs. i had to replace mine which added another $800 for coils and spark plugs.

Should be able to get a fuel pump and tune for that price but make sure you got decent coil packs and spark plugs. i had to replace mine which added another $800 for coils and spark plugs.

yeah true, the coils are standard and considering the age of the car id say they could do with replacing eh, thanks mate

you wont need an aftermarket fuel reg. the stock one will work fine for your power figures

really? well thats a good thing, maybe just a fuel pump and new coils then? ive been looking at a Walbro in-tank item? wat are these like anyone?? and most probably splitfire coils.

Mark will recommend tomei :cheers: I made about 180rwkw on a 40 odd degree day. He doesnt try to push every single ounce of power possible out of the engine which suited me fine. I asked for a safe tune and thats what I got.

I will definately going back after my next round of mods for another tune.

Mark will recommend tomei :cheers: I made about 180rwkw on a 40 odd degree day. He doesnt try to push every single ounce of power possible out of the engine which suited me fine. I asked for a safe tune and thats what I got.

I will definately going back after my next round of mods for another tune.

ok cool, yeah that sounds like exactly the sort of tune i am after, definately safe, considering the age of the car and the amount of standard parts :cool: think il have to give him a call for sure

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
×
×
  • Create New...