Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have no idea why or how but i THINK i have coolent coming into my cabin from the foot vent in the car and its all over the carpet and it only comes out when i corner?????

My car did over heat a lil the other day but now its all back 2 normal but i just wanna know why this shit is leaking into my car?!?!?!?!?

Plz help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30976-liquid-comin-from-front-foot-wells/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Umm MadGT4. of course its coolant, how do you think your cabin heater works, engine coolant is pumped through the firewall and into a metal heater core. It corrodes like any other part of the coolant system.

Id seriously stop driving the car whilst its leaking, loss of coolant will cause your car to overheat and if you think running an engine without oil is catastrophic, wait till you run it without water! Best way to bin a motor.

Id doubt its just a hose leak, or else it would be leaking more constantly.

Heater cores are not easy to replace, they involve removing alot of the dashboard. If i were you id get the screwdrivers out and remove the core yourself then take it to a radiator shop for repair. Or else you'll be paying a mechanic at 50-80 dollars an hour to do a job that could take a whole day to do.

red17

Bugger!

Thanx for the tip looks like i might be doing that then

And its not inconsistant its like consistantly leaking so yeah and mainly on the passanger side for some unknow reason, theres only a very small amount coming into the drivers foot well...

Um now does anyone know how easy/hard it is to remove basically all the dash like Red17 said?

Although the liquid is probably coolant, it could be the aircon's refridgerant. When I had a leak on my AC system, I took it to my nissan dealer who regassed it and added some kind of green dye - the idea being it would be easier to detemine where the leak was coming from. The dye looked exactly like engine coolent...

if the leak only occurs sometimes, check to see if it only happens during/after using the AC...

i had this, started off small, the one nice winter morning the thing sh!t itself and i had steam billowing out the windows! bypassed the core and had to buy a new core for almost $400! just need to put it in now!

guys if ur heater is the problem u can still drive it as long as u turn the heater off . if u have climate control put the temp on the lowest seting 18 deg .

one way to check if its the heater when the car is at normal temp and when the ambient temp is say bellow 24 c put the heater on at the highest seting thats when the coolant should come in the cabin .

I guess its more pronounced, when the climate control is using a bit of heating to get a nice temp. Set at about 24c (18c gets too cold, even on 35deg days!) i guess that is when its been happening and it would be swapping between aircon/heating to maintain that.

Today - after removing my floormat, and seeing how much has been coming out - the loss from the radiator *does* match the leak, and its bigger than I inititally thought. Even just idling at standstill was enough to take a noticeable amount from the radiator.

Anyhow, i'm on the case... i can't drive around much with this happening for too long, as there is the risk of cooking the engine if it isn't topped up enough. Anybody who is having this problem *always* check the water level in the radiator and top up as necesary. For those that aren't aware: NEVER do this when the engine is already hot, as cold water into warm engine = cracked head

ok, well this arvo i've been pulling it all apart. Took some photos too..

First photo is the coolant that you can see on the carpet.. 2nd is the actual water as it drips down. While it looks like one exact spot, water is actually leaking from a number of places to under the carpet.

Further to wrxhoon, its not actually *that* hard to get to I didn't think once you have worked it out.. You can remove the whole glovebox assembly, letting you get easy access to behind where all the heater stuff is. No need to remove the whole dash.

Getting too hot so i've had to take a bit of a break, will keep updated on future progress.

ok, here is the glovebox after i'd taken it out..

To remove it, there are about 6x screws (circled red in the attachment). 2x of these are actually the catch to the glovebox, but you'll have to remove these also. Trickiest one is the one bottom right, which you'll have to do with the glovebox open, and using a long philips head to get in there.

After that you'll have to kind of pop the clips out (circled green) which attach to the upper part of the dashboard. I snapped one because its hard to do it without doing that :D but superglue will fix it.

Once you've done all that, you should be able to lift it all out as one piece, allowing you to get to all the heater stuff...

This should be what you can get to after you've got all the glovebox out. I assume this is the "heater core", although i'm still not quite sure what that means, i guess its like an element.

I guess i'll find out once i get it apart and/or out. Looks like you can take the bottom part out. Thats my next attempt :D

This should be what you can get to after you've got all the glovebox out. I assume this is the "heater core", although i'm still not quite sure what that means, i guess its like an element.  

I guess i'll find out once i get it apart and/or out. Looks like you can take the bottom part out. Thats my next attempt :rofl:

Yeah that looks like the airconditioning unit,,in behind that is the heater core,, it looks like a minature radiator with plastic surround with 2 plastic hose connections coming from it,,,,, i called Natrad in melborne and they got me one supplied for $250 brand new shipped down from canberra.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...