Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok by now we have read th usual of lowlifes breaking into our cars. Mine is just another in the long list...

The fubard the passenger lock with screwdriver or scissors, got in, pulled everything out of cernter console and got sprung by ME.

jumped into their car and drove off

I proceeded to follow.

Engaged in an at-distance pursuit, ending in Coyone Street Gowrie. (I assumed the guise of a normal driver, melt into the traffic, no laws broken)

I withdrew because I wasnt familiar with the area.

Got numberplate, occupant description, car make/model. Went to Woden Police station, there was another lady in there giving statement that her car got broken into around the same time, she had a white serII R33 manual. got her cd's and ciggies gorne but the security got to her car befor they could disable the alarm.

Police actually have a list of known skyline breakers, will get back in contact with me tomorrow.

Now Im reseacrching paging alarm systems. and air compressors and slim-line truck horns

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309997-skyline-broken-into-woden-carpark/
Share on other sites

Bad luck Andrew.

Rather than installing a louder horn and hoping people who hear it will actually care, you are better off hiding a 120db piezo siren inside the cabin triggered by either an alarm or a simple timer circuit. No way anybody could sit inside your car while that was going off. Jaycar sell them.

Bad luck Andrew.

Rather than installing a louder horn and hoping people who hear it will actually care, you are better off hiding a 120db piezo siren inside the cabin triggered by either an alarm or a simple timer circuit. No way anybody could sit inside your car while that was going off. Jaycar sell them.

This would be good if I didn't occasionally set my alarm off while I'm sitting in my car..

I'd be interested in any info you could give on those John. I'd be very much keen on it, just don't know what I'm looking for lol...also yeah something on a timer, say, 30 seconds after initial alarm goes off would be good.

Obviously a quality alarm/immobiliser and GPS tracker are always the best option, but can be a bit pricey.

Unfortunately the guys who break into your car just to steal the stuff in your console and glovebox will often ignore the alarm going off, grab your stuff and take off anyway. Having a very, very loud siren inside the cabin is going to make that a very uncomfortable experience for them. As Giveway pointed out, it can also be painful for the owner if they trip the alarm by mistake.

It never ceases to amaze me though how many people don't have any security at all on their car, sure not everyone can afford a $1K system, but there are lots of cheaper options that are better than nothing. A simple immobiliser circuit can be built by anyone who can hold a soldering iron for about $20, or even less if you have the parts lying around.

Places like Jaycar have heaps of good stuff, you just need a basic knowledge of electronics and a bit of imagination. Not going to publish details here, but happy to give you some ideas via PM if anyone is worried about their ride.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...