Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats it supose to do???

edit

just done a search and hummmmmmm ok then if that can do half of what it says than im a china man

better off getting a neo or a safc or better still

Is there not anywhere in Australia that do generic stage one ECU remaps on an exchange basis?????

Edited by jjskyline79

HI all after hours apoun hours of research and pulling the ecu apart the item is a early version powermod piggy back system. After speaking to powermood.com.au i found there service to be excellent with them even sending me the wiring diagram and fitting instructions to the rb25det. well done to them it hard to find this level of help in an item bought off ebay in which they have no responsiblty for what so ever.

well installed the unit today. hmmmm... Car 1 me 0 installed it all and wont fire. ( i did use spade terminals and splicing connectors ) so will be firing up the soldering iron on the week end and have another go at it. Hopefully it was just a splice connection that was not making contact.

do you have someone that can even tune this system?

never heard of it, and i suspect most tuners will say the same thing

its probably more hassles than its worth honestly

i would have left it at that, cut your losses and buy something well known and locally supported

get a nistune
Good advice there. Nistune is readily available for Rrb25.

NOT

Track down a Z32 ECU, Get a Nis-Tune Board... Then off to the Tuner :D

We've done it to atleast 10x cars by now.

Just need the correct ECU No.

My two cents :down:

Edited by JDM_Spirit

There is a fair bit of support for the power mod system and it is the same distance away from were i live to power mod or nistune tuners. I am a sparky by trade and have some knowledge of how wiring should be done so i would rather just give it another go.

OK round 2 still didnt start but the bloke from powermood said to just run the powermod with out the input /output of the 120 degree senor ( this still just plugs into the normal ecu ). After that it runs so my question is what does the 120 degree sensor do ( i still have the 1 degree sensor inputted into the power mod ) Note this only required to be spliced into not cut .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...