Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I was looking in the garage the today and realised how many parts I have accumulated which I will never use again.... time for a clean up!!

Having owned just about every import under the sun over the past 8 years, means there's a lot of random parts available..

Here's the list, I'll be taking photos in the morning:

Nissan Parts:

*Standard R33 Gtst Catback Exhaust $80

*Standard R33 Gtst Side mount intercooler $50

*Standard R34 GTT Sedan Catback Exhaust $80

*R33 Gtst Series 1 Grille $10

*R33 Gtst Dual Pillar Gauge Holder including HKS Boost Gauge, HKS Water temp Gauge $100

*RB 25 Spark Plug Cover $10

*R33 Gtst BN Sports Side Skirts, Rear Bar (NEW) $250

*TRW 5 Point Racing Harness $50

*R32 ZCAS Front Pads (New) $80

*GT Wing $50

*R33 GTR Head complete with springs, valves, standard cams and standard cam gears (used, slight work required) $500 for the lot

*R33 GTR Crank (Looks ok, needs to be crack tested) $300

*R33 GTR Block (Needs Work) $50

*R33 GTR Rods, with pistons, including pins, rings, bearings (Have 11 sets to choose from) $200 for the lot

*R33 GTR Nismo Sports Clutch/flywheel (Single) $200

*R33 GTR Turbos x2 With standard dumps (Very good condition) $250

*Cefiro Series 1 Tail-lights, complete set $80

*180sx Front Fenders Left/Right (Red Colour) $150

*S15 Autech Spoiler (Pearl Colour) $20

*S15 Cluster (Auto) $20

Toyota:

*Standard Aristo Catback Exhaust $80

* JDM Number Plate Holder $10

There's probably more stuff, but thats all I can remember at this point.

Its all in Adelaide, pickup welcome, also willing to post interstate at buyers expense.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

*R33 GTR Crank (Looks ok, needs to be crack tested) $300

*R33 GTR Rods, with pistons, including pins, rings, bearings (Have 11 sets to choose from) $200 for the lot

Much Want - I'll PM you when i get time, about to head off to work.

*R33 Gtst Dual Pillar Gauge Holder including HKS Boost Gauge, HKS Water temp Gauge $100

photos and price to 3052?

not sure on what postage would be?

$20? i'll find out

post-20233-1267659803_thumb.jpg

hi mate looking for a set of r33 2door side skirts would you sell them minus the rear bar, regards adam

might do.. but i think the whole set is being picked up tonight

keep you posted.

**Also RB25 Spark plug cover sold

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...