Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do you have a gtr for sale? im in the market for one, i want a stock one with no mods, but i will consider anything not too modified, it needs to be streetable. do you know somebody honest that can import one for me? there are plenty out there with the dealers, but i dont trust dealers. from what i heard most of the wind back the clock, so how do you know if its been wound back or not? do you ask for the japanese auction papers?

who is trustworthy out there?

what would your shopping procedure be for one of the beasts?

do you have a gtr for sale? im in the market for one, i want a stock one with no mods, but i will consider anything not too modified, it needs to be streetable. do you know somebody honest that can import one for me? there are plenty out there with the dealers, but i dont trust dealers. from what i heard most of the wind back the clock, so how do you know if its been wound back or not? do you ask for the japanese auction papers?

who is trustworthy out there?

what would your shopping procedure be for one of the beasts?

You'll probably get more help by asking this in the Importing forum section. I've read plenty on these questions over there.

There is also another section for Wanted to Buy. Good luck.

many many people can easily and happily import you an R33 GTR.

however I would STRONGLY advise that you buy such a car locally.

6 years ago, a good R33 GTR would fetch $45K, and a Series 2 or 3 V-Spec would fetch upwards of $55K. At that point in time, it was clearly worth importing one.

Now, with a rash of these cars having been imported 2 years ago when the AUD/Yen rate was sitting between 100-105, there are plenty of good, cheap R33 GTR for sale locally by people who just need to sell up to get the money (clearly, as witnessed by the for sale threads).

I think it is fair to say that you can get an extremely neat late model R32 GTR in stock trim for around the $14-15K mark now, late (S2 or 3) R33 GTR for around the $22-23K, and even R34 GTR V-Specs are getting to the $40K mark. (For those who wish to dispute, I am not talking about ASKING prices, I am talking about SELLING prices, for which there is a massive difference).

I can't see an importer getting a truly mint R33 GTR S2 or 3 for below 1M Yen FOB, which means you'd be scraping to get one in below $20K ready to register. This may constitute a saving of $1-2K, when for the delay and risk, I think you are much better off shopping around locally, and waving cash in a few people's faces. Don't just offer lowball prices over the net, but if you turn up, check the car, and make an aggressive offer, you may be surprised at how well you can do.

many many people can easily and happily import you an R33 GTR.

however I would STRONGLY advise that you buy such a car locally.

6 years ago, a good R33 GTR would fetch $45K, and a Series 2 or 3 V-Spec would fetch upwards of $55K. At that point in time, it was clearly worth importing one.

Now, with a rash of these cars having been imported 2 years ago when the AUD/Yen rate was sitting between 100-105, there are plenty of good, cheap R33 GTR for sale locally by people who just need to sell up to get the money (clearly, as witnessed by the for sale threads).

I think it is fair to say that you can get an extremely neat late model R32 GTR in stock trim for around the $14-15K mark now, late (S2 or 3) R33 GTR for around the $22-23K, and even R34 GTR V-Specs are getting to the $40K mark. (For those who wish to dispute, I am not talking about ASKING prices, I am talking about SELLING prices, for which there is a massive difference).

I can't see an importer getting a truly mint R33 GTR S2 or 3 for below 1M Yen FOB, which means you'd be scraping to get one in below $20K ready to register. This may constitute a saving of $1-2K, when for the delay and risk, I think you are much better off shopping around locally, and waving cash in a few people's faces. Don't just offer lowball prices over the net, but if you turn up, check the car, and make an aggressive offer, you may be surprised at how well you can do.

I agree to certain extend, go up to the seller and offer what you think is reasonable and most time you'll be surprised. But having said that, 1 year ago when I was looking at buying my car, any 33GTR below 25k are just not worth looking at. I mean you can look at them but chance of you scoring a good mint condition one is much lower comparing to anything above the 26k or even 28k mark. I ended up paying something more for the N1 which I have absolutely no problem with at all.

That sounds pretty reasonable.

i would rather buy one locally anyway, at least i can see the car for myself

thanks..

Unless you're after something unique and special (N1, 400R or maybe colour etc), I wouldnt recommend importing. There sooooo many in the market now and prices arent that exp at all.

If you're concern with mileage, I wouldnt recommend you to even buy an import (maybe get a new car). I wouldnt even trust a logbook 100% (but they do provide some sort of evident). So long as everything is running fine and you like it, I dont see any problem with it. And seriously, how many Ks do you suppose they would have wind it back? Being more realistic, I'd say anywhere from 10000k to 50000k easily and dont tell me a good engine will blow up with more than 100000km on it. Having a logbook for a standard car (unless its a limited edition car) will mean nothing and to me, its not worth the premium you're paying (it doesnt help much with resale). Think about it, would you choose to buy a mint gtr without log for 25k or pay 35k for one that's got log?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...