Jump to content
SAU Community

Question About Greddy Oil Pan Extension Installation.....

Ramius83

By Ramius83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
Posted

I have recently had a Greddy Oil Pan Sump Extension welded onto my RB26 oil pan. Of course, being in all Japanese, my welder went by the pictures. He cut the lower pan, welded on the sump pan, and welded the center oil pick-up baffle extension. All seemed good until I went to install.

It seems that the oil pick-up is about 3/16 of an inch off from the bottom of the oil pan, if that. And the long cylinder tube baffle that was welded on sits about 1/8 of an inch off the bottom of the pan., again, if that and almost flush with the bottom of the oil pan.

Does anyone have any pictures of their set-up or if anyone has their pan out, can you get me some pictures? Or does this sound right or wrong? This seems too close to me and I think it will starve the engine of oil. Thanks in advance......

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

converting inches to mm as we speak :D

my maths is ass but 3/16 is about 4.5-5mm and 1/8 inch is around 3mm, i will check the clearances for you. Its sounds about right as the std pickup sits 4-5mm off the bottom.

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, so I got a little more technical here.

I added some Play-Do (spelling?) to the bottom of the oil pickup and dry-fitted the sump to the engine. I then removed the sump and the Play-Do stuck to the pick-up. Removed the Play-Do and placed on flat table. Using a caliper, I measure about 4mm from the very very very bottom of the pick-up (flared ears) to the bottom of the pan. Does this sound right or too close?

Also, again, regarding the actual baffling. Mine sits about 2-3mm off the bottom of the pan. Is this right? Or again, is it too close? Thanks......

Ramius83 Collaborator

Ramius83

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No, not really. I was hoping for some more useful posts here. I did post in GTROC and was told that it is fine. But I wanted more opinions, especially from peeps here. I trust STATUS's comments, I just wanted a few more before I bolted it on.

I think that I may be freaking out over nothing. But, it doesn't hurt to be extra cautious, especially since this is all being done with my full engine build at the same time.....

BTW, GTROC Link......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...