Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just re-assembled my gtst to standard, put everything standard back in, turbo, ecu, afm, fuel reg, fuel pump, and coils.

Fired it up and it started first pop like a baby, never idled so good in years. I was wrapped. I let it idle for 20 minutes as i checked for leaks, presto, all fixed.

Took it to the car wash to clean things up so i thought i might do the engine bay as well. I was pretty careful with everything around the pod filter etc.

Took it home and it now runs like a absolute cop, car wont idle without giving some sort of throttle and falls in a hole as you put the foot down, even a slight bit. Back into the garage to check for air leaks, maybe water down the valley. Took all the spark plugs out, all good. Took the afm off last night together with all the piping to the turbo etc, nothing, bolted it all back, and still wont idle without stalling.

I am thinking ECU or AFM are faulty?? Should i reset the ECU and check for fault codes???

Maybe it was just a concidence that when i cleaned the engine bay now it runs like a cop.

This happens every time someone cleans their engine bay. Run the car, find which cylinder it is missfiring on and look around that area. If it's multiple cylinders, just run the car gently around the block a few times. Chances are it'll clear up. If not, try cleaning the AFM and air blowing the back of the injector plugs.

if u pull the AFM plug, it will put the ECU into limp mode and dump heaps of fuel into the car and you'll be restricted with a rev limiter of around 4000rpm

yes, and the car will run with a blown cooler pipe 90% of the time after you have done this

yes, and the car will run with a blown cooler pipe 90% of the time after you have done this

great for when you get into a small stack resulting in FMIC damage and want to save on a tow truck!

great for when you get into a small stack resulting in FMIC damage and want to save on a tow truck!

Well it was more so suggested because if he disconnects it and the car runs, then it's either a cooler pipe blown off or a faulty AFM. Narrows the search down somewhat and it's an easy check to do

Ok, reset the ecu and nothing, still the same. Took the AFM connection off and its runs exactly the same, so basically the AFM is doing nothing and the ecu is in limp mode.

Does this mean its the AFM meaning maybe a slight bit of water got on the connection and has caused this??

Or is there something else putting it into limp mode. I have checked all cooler pipes and they are fine.

No mate, might have to find one eventually but i thought i would do all the checks before i start replacing parts. Pulled the AFM apart and re soldered the joints, no difference

Then have you done a voltage output test on the AFM to diagnose it?

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...