Jump to content
SAU Community

Plans for this Friday 30th August


Blitz
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest | hype^ |

yes all ... well it had to happen!!!

freezing my a$$ off on the freeway by myself for half and hour after having ur car F@@@ up on ya isnt the best feeling in the world! and seeing like 5 skylines fly past didnt help either!!!:D

iv been told it may not be the clutch but maybe the driveline..

cos the car starts in gear and the rear wheels spind (when spun by hand) when in gear..

guess ill have to postpone the FMI and take it some where to see whats up..

not impressed at all!!!!

na after i found out the 5K lauches were bad i stopped doin them..

btw thanx ryan for letting me make like 5million phone calls from your phone!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The car starts in gear ? This would be one of the first things to indicate a blown clutch.

Ummm....sounds like clutch, again, the gearbox would allow the rear wheels to free spin if the clutch was not clamping. interesting..if that was the case the clutch must of destoried itself completely and really badly.

Driveline stuff usually either packs it in over a period of time and you know its coming or it just goes BANG...but you would of surely heard something, or see stuff broken.....

my two cents....

And it does sound like you've been trashing it...5k lanuchs...tisk tisk.....Tryouts for the Fast and Furious 2 ???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest | hype^ |

geeez good to hear that every1 has so much faith in me.. :shake:

i havent been thrashing it that hard..

and stopped the big launches ages ago..

any1 roughly how much in looking at for a decent clutch??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hype: UAS sells decent heavy duty clutch upgrades for around $595 exchange, ive ordered an Exeedy clutch, most of the cost is labour, im looking at around $800 fora 6 puck heavy duty unit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hard luck Eug, was it the stock clutch? It was just a bit strange that it suddenly went like that. My clutch slipped for a month or so till it finally wouldn't move the car. Was around the corner from the mechanics when it died. My dad towed me in my old pulsar, but i too had badly injurred the clutch in that too, in the end we got to the mechanics with 2 cars and 2 dead clutches.:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest | hype^ |

took it to the mechanic today, he'll look at it tomorrow he said it might even be a f*cked gear box.. :D in that case im pretty stuffed...

i already bought the intercooler kit i was gonna get fitted..

so im up for a cooler,clutch,bleed valve, boost guage, service and maybe even gear box all in one hiT!!!!!;):mad:

bah!!!!

yeh that reminds me nick.. if i wanna order a boost guage through uas how long would it take, i need it by friday the latest,

im after the ultra light 2 5/8" to go to 30 psi and 30 vacume

(did that make sence??)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest | hype^ |
Originally posted by GTR-80Y

[bMy dad towed me in my old pulsar, but i too had badly injurred the clutch in that too, in the end we got to the mechanics with 2 cars and 2 dead clutches.:D [/b]

bahaha funny as.. would have been cheaper to call a towie i recon!!... :lol:

yeh as far as i know it was the stock clutch, if so, it did alright lasting nearly 10 years..

hope fully the car will be fixed by next week.. pending on how buzy they are..

then ill be cruzin wit a proper clutch and fmi and more boost ;)

i was pissed i wanted to drag ya.. since both cars are stock!!.. oh well..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah thats what I was thinking ?30 PSI...Like having a speedo with 320 kph on it...no point

A gearbox broke on a standard setup....my limited knowledge is telling me that I doubt that very much unless someone has flat shifted or shifting without the clutch alot....maybe multiple k launchs too...

I'd get a second opinon as well...The gearboxs are suppose to be on standard, even mild to mid setups.

Nick might be able to comment here...

I know the synchros are usually rooted from Jap driving styles, they lean on 4th gear and put pressure on the shifter while driving, also the amount of highways they have, they tend to use 5th alot, which is basically a overdrive gear anyway...so at worst the synrchos would be rooted....

but a broken gearbox on a car with what about 65-68k on it...doubt it

my two cents

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im no gearbox expert, but the only way you blow a gearbox if thrashing the **** of out of as peak said. Having said that the box could have had issues so user abuse might not be the case. Either way it normally would take some harsh treatment to break.

Good luck getting it all sorted out Eugene....!

get a loan and throw in a trust 6 speed :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest | hype^ |

lol thanx guys. i got a loan for the car..

i dont need more debts..

the guy said it could be from the way it was driven in jap, he gets alot of 180s that ppl have for a few weeks and gear box just goes for np apparent reason..

so whats this rocket industries thing??

i want it to go to 30psi for the same reson that ppl get guages to 2bar instead of 1.5bar..

im thinking ahead...

in that FAR future when i changet the turbo and a sh1t load of other things ill prob. be running more than 20 psi.. i hate doing things twice!

thats,, :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To tune a R33GTS-t to run boost safely at 20+psi, I rekon you'd almost be able to get a R32 GTR, if you used the money spendt on mods plus the sale of your car.

After Computer, headgasket, clutch, intercooler, injectors, fuel pump and regulator, oil cooler, oil catch can.......uuummm the list would be endless.

Don't get me wrong, it'll be an awsome piece of work...but perfer a GTR....I know you said "FAR" into the future...But I was going to do the same...holding back until I get the cash saved for the GTR.

I'm not even buying mags for my R33....just want that GTR. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest | hype^ |

bahaha... u know whats so funny peak...

i was gonna buy that VERY SAME car... but i couldnt get all the money togethter..

they were only askin like 32K...

by the way they changed the rims over on that car.. its got 3spoke's now..

good luck with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by PeakRPM

I'd get a second opinon as well...The gearboxs are suppose to be on standard, even mild to mid setups.

but a broken gearbox on a car with what about 65-68k on it...doubt it  

my two cents

hmm, my thoughts too. These boxes are tough as nails. If you have destroyed it.....WOW!!:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah...I'm waiting till I have enough cash saved to buy a R32GTR outright, maybe end this year to mid next year.

Then I can sell the R33 GTS-t and use the cash off the sale of that for Mods and Full Comprehensive Insurance (with all mods listed too).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...