Jump to content
SAU Community

splits to replace the front speakers..

Gizmo73

By Gizmo73,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gizmo73 Proficient

Gizmo73

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys..

Did a search, and found way too many naughty words like "dremel", "cut" and "shave" - so i thought i would post my question... :D

Background: The car is a Series I R33. Ive already got an jvc kd-s785 4 X 45 mp3 deck with 3-way kenwood M series speakers in the rear....if i could change the front to something nice it will do me until i can afford a decent amp...

Im looking to replace the front speakers with splits...however since im a total noob to the audio car game, id like to get something that will go in with minimum hassle and hopefully no modification to the doors or wiring...

Any recommendations ? From my search, i think i need 6 inch, correct ??

Better still, if anyone had some recommendations for this setup (brand, size, etc) for less than $300 ??

Thanks in advance,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31247-splits-to-replace-the-front-speakers/
Share on other sites
Gizmo73 Proficient

Gizmo73

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  strutto said:
JBL 6.5" splits fit in the factory locations with no modifications (bar the tweeter mount)...

Cost me $240 about 12 months ago...

Thanks For the response guys...

Strutto - 6.5" will fit into an R33 series 1 ?? I thought from my searching that it was either a tight fit or needed some dremelling ??

Anyone know about the Hertz HKS165 - any good ?? Straight fit ??

http://www.webaudiodirect.com/prod236.htm

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
  Quote
Anyone know about the Hertz HKS165 - any good ?? Straight fit ??

Thats what i have in mine.. Sound good and nice bass. But if you want large volume you'll need to run them from an amp as that face unit distorts at about anything past 25.

Baffle? you can just use the front plastic mounts and hack them a bit to fit them in fine.

Gizmo73 Proficient

Gizmo73

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  Fhrx said:
The Hertz HSK165 are quite a nice speaker. Basically similar to the Bostons. :P

They will fit in with a small baffle made up. :D

Baffle ?? Care to elaborate ??

Sorry, i can/have wired my own deck into the R33 already - but im still a noob with the terminology !! :(

Gizmo73 Proficient

Gizmo73

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  predator said:
Thats what i have in mine.. Sound good and nice bass. But if you want large volume you'll need to run them from an amp as that face unit distorts at about anything past 25.  

Baffle? you can just use the front plastic mounts and hack them a bit to fit them in fine.

Thanks for that predator...

The amp is later on in the year - ive jsut gotta do something about those front speakers - they suck !!! Anything past 10 on the deck, and they distort :(

Ouch Community Regular

Ouch

Posted
Posted

yeap, that's where i put mine. Did experiments during the install and found that just behind the a pillar is the best place to mount the tweeters in terms of clarity. Mine are only stuck onto the pillar, cos apparently you get a better sound as opposed to if you cut in and got it flush mounted (so i'm told). But I just didn't fancy the idea of cutting into anything...

hippy Grand Master

hippy

Posted
Posted
  Ouch said:
yeap, that's where i put mine. Did experiments during the install and found that just behind the a pillar is the best place to mount the tweeters in terms of clarity. Mine are only stuck onto the pillar, cos apparently you get a better sound as opposed to if you cut in and got it flush mounted (so i'm told). But I just didn't fancy the idea of cutting into anything...

from what i know that really isn't the idea since the seperation distance between the tweeter and the woofer is pretty far ... that might be a meter or so ... you will find that the tweeter will be much louder than the woofer i think and won't sound as nice ...inho ... the idea is to have your tweeter and woofer as close as possible ... but its up to u ...

Fhrx Rising Star

Fhrx

Posted
Posted
  Gizmo73 said:
Baffle ??  Care to elaborate ??  

Sorry, i can/have wired my own deck into the R33 already - but im still a noob with the terminology !! ;)

Baffles are what we use to hold the speakers down on the door giving them a solid base to work from and removing the need to cut metal in doors. :D

See this image here:

garry_3.jpg

Ouch Community Regular

Ouch

Posted
Posted

In the end, its always down to personal preference. For me, I prefer having them separate cos i found it gave me better clarity without any noticeable separation in sound. But that could also depend on the characteristics of the woofer. Though it might be small, different speakers have different sound dispersion characteristics so if you're picky (like me) you cant really go and apply one setup as universal for all speakers. And yes, the adjustable crossover gets really important the greater the distance is between the components. Dont forget that speaker placement will also affect the way you eq ur speakers - which may also be then limited to what controls you have on ur deck or a separate eq if ur running one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...