Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just wondering of anyone noes of any easy-to-do ways to increase horsepower on your car, i no of a few but if any could help would be greatly appreciated, i spoke to this at a performace shop who told me some but i cant remember but, he said there are plently of site of it on the net, but i cant seem to find any, if any one can help me with this, would be great

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31270-more-power/
Share on other sites

Being an exhaust fitter that last pic doesn't make me laugh, it makes me cry! WHY!!! WHY!!!

The only free hosrepower that I can think of is a Turbo as it gets its power from spent exhaust gasses.

Here is some mods for N/A engines that might improve power:

Cold air induction, modify and enlarge airbox inlet/outlet and put a bell mouth on the outlet, better flowing airfilter (or pod and cold air box/partition), remove all plastic corrugated intake pipes and make smoother versions out of aluminium tube and smooth rubber bends or aluminium bends and rubber tube (try not to remove vacuum resonance chamber on intake pipe or increase pipe diameter excessively), clean all carbon and oil deposits on throttle body and plenum (or fit larger throttle body or bore out and fit larger vane), Remove any breathers that run from engine to intake and fit oil catch can setup, Next time you change spark plugs choose ones that have a small electrode diameter as this makes it easier for a spark to be produced (reducing the gap slightly also helps in making spark stronger) Ignition Advancing the timing a couple of degrees in some engines might make more power but this is dependant on what octane fuel you use, next time you change engine oil try a fully synthetic high performance friction modified oil (make sure you use the right viscosity of course) this might help reduce friction and drag on engine components, fitting a lower temp thermostat might help drop engine temps for a slightly cooler intake charge, extractors coated in ceramic or wraped in thermal tape, high flow converter and a better flowing exhaust than the factory items will make more power.

Try using some in tank injector cleaner (or get them removed and ultra-sonically cleaned and tested professionaly.)

Run some octane booster/tolulene to raise the octane dont use NOS on a stock engine unless you want a stuffed rings and clutch.

NOTE: This is just a guide, I have no responsability for damage caused to you or your vehicle or the speeding fine that you will get while testing your mods.

MEGA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31270-more-power/#findComment-632052
Share on other sites

here are some easy ways to increase horsepower:

- straight through mandrel-bent exhaust, big, least amoung of bends as possible

- higher flowing air filter than stock

- remap the ECU or get a chip for your ECU

many cars have characteristics that make gaining horsepower easier (eg if you have a gtr then replacing a tiny hose can unlock a great deal of power). a honda site may be able to provide you with some sort of help with this as here we generally only know RB engines (as they're better)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31270-more-power/#findComment-634103
Share on other sites

here are some easy ways to increase horsepower:

- straight through mandrel-bent exhaust, big, least amoung of bends as possible

- higher flowing air filter than stock

- remap the ECU or get a chip for your ECU

many cars have characteristics that make gaining horsepower easier (eg if you have a gtr then replacing a tiny hose can unlock a great deal of power). a honda site may be able to provide you with some sort of help with this as here we generally only know RB engines (as they're better)

^ What he said :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31270-more-power/#findComment-634119
Share on other sites

how do u get a chip for the ecu and how mcuh is it? and how does it work?

go to:

www.unichip.com.au

i hope that link works as i made it up but i'm sure that its their site...

costs about $1000 fitted. it changes the air/fuel ratios and timing that the car uses to create the most efficient combustion in your engine. more efficient = more power. the stock ECU is more aimed at protecting the engine and uses too much fuel, thus if you can slightly reduce the amount of fuel (or 'lean out the mixture') then you can gain an extra 10-20kW or so depending on your engine.

easy, but expensive.

good luck...

Waz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31270-more-power/#findComment-635530
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
×
×
  • Create New...