Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel 98


Black_CSR
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why we tune on vortex 98 , even country caltex have it

I've been to Caltex's in Perth that don't even have Vortex98.

Pick a fuel , have car tuned on it and stick to it .

That's what I've done, and you bag my opinion of U98? why? because you use Vortex98?

I did an ~1300km round trip down south and could get U98 everywhere until Albany, filled up there and carried an extra 40L in jerry cans.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been to Caltex's in Perth that don't even have Vortex98.

That's what I've done, and you bag my opinion of U98? why? because you use Vortex98?

I did an ~1300km round trip down south and could get U98 everywhere until Albany, filled up there and carried an extra 40L in jerry cans.

Not bagging bp98 ,Our BP is daylight hours and often runs out as its only place in town with it yet we have two 24hr caltex servos with in 10ks of each other and no BP at collie and if we have cars in perth for events there is 24hr caltex 500mtrs down road from our maddington depot ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my car, every time I put my foot down and it hits full boost.. no pingping = no bad fuel.

LOL then regular is good , 31 ran on regular unleaded at drags after i filled from wrong jerry can :) no ping n still 12s .. also you dont always hear the marbles drop :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whether its vortex98, Ultimate98 or Peak98, its essentially same shit different bucket.

Those who claim to have huge fuel efficiency discrepancies are mostly lying to themselves only because the chances that they drove the same places/distances/speed/foot down etc could not have been accurate.

Most street cars 95ron is fine, the RON only matters when the car is of significant horsepower and in which case, they wouldn't be running average joe unleaded fuels anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL then regular is good , 31 ran on regular unleaded at drags after i filled from wrong jerry can :) no ping n still 12s .. also you dont always hear the marbles drop :)

If you can hear it.. it's probably already done some damage!

Fair call that regular is probably fine what with the safe tunes most people get (read: rich) but I would still prefer to run 98 for a little bit of safety headroom!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whether its vortex98, Ultimate98 or Peak98, its essentially same shit different bucket.

Those who claim to have huge fuel efficiency discrepancies are mostly lying to themselves only because the chances that they drove the same places/distances/speed/foot down etc could not have been accurate.

Most street cars 95ron is fine, the RON only matters when the car is of significant horsepower and in which case, they wouldn't be running average joe unleaded fuels anyway.

I drive my car to uni, it is the exact same distance, speed limit and place every day of the week. Because it is a 108km round trip, i drive very conservatively, so don't put my foot down very much at all, usually change gears before 3k. Fine there might be the odd occasion where i go over and accelerate a bit harder, but that is not going to make 200kms difference to a tank of fuel. Fact is, my car get's less mileage out of a tank of Peak or Caltex than it does from BP. You can try to tell me otherwise but i am the one that drives my car, i know what it gets to a tank of fuel. They are not all the same fuel.

You realise that in Japan, 98 RON is the lowest octane fuel they have? Therefore a JDM car should not be run on anything less than 98 RON, because it was not made to do so. Your Fords and Holdens and Hyundais etc. will all run fine on normal unleaded because they are made for it. JDM cars can be run on normal unleaded too no doubt about that, but just because it can be done doesn't mean it should. I like to make sure my car is healthy, part of that is making sure it has the right fuel in it.

And there are plenty of cars out there running 900hp or other ridiculously large power figures, and they are doing it on pump fuel. If you car is tuned for it, it is perfect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I drive my car to uni, it is the exact same distance, speed limit and place every day of the week. Because it is a 108km round trip, i drive very conservatively, so don't put my foot down very much at all, usually change gears before 3k. Fine there might be the odd occasion where i go over and accelerate a bit harder, but that is not going to make 200kms difference to a tank of fuel. Fact is, my car get's less mileage out of a tank of Peak or Caltex than it does from BP. You can try to tell me otherwise but i am the one that drives my car, i know what it gets to a tank of fuel. They are not all the same fuel.

You realise that in Japan, 98 RON is the lowest octane fuel they have? Therefore a JDM car should not be run on anything less than 98 RON, because it was not made to do so. Your Fords and Holdens and Hyundais etc. will all run fine on normal unleaded because they are made for it. JDM cars can be run on normal unleaded too no doubt about that, but just because it can be done doesn't mean it should. I like to make sure my car is healthy, part of that is making sure it has the right fuel in it.

And there are plenty of cars out there running 900hp or other ridiculously large power figures, and they are doing it on pump fuel. If you car is tuned for it, it is perfect.

200kms is a LOT of difference lmao

Link to comment
Share on other sites

200kms is a LOT of difference lmao

I know that. Which is why i said the few random moments of acceleration are not going to cause such a massive difference between fuel consumptions. I get 500-550kms to a tank of BP Ultimate if i drive casually. I get about 470-500kms from a tank of Vortex 98. And i get about 320-370kms to a tank of Peak 98. For me that shows the quality between the fuels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hanaldo, there are 4 reasons this occurred.

-shit batch of fuel which i doubt

- you didnt fill it up as much as you thought

- you didnt reset the odometer for a while

- you were high at the time.

The difference you stated is huge, I dont get this sort of discrepancy if i have a drift practice during the week. I normally get 450, with a drift practice, read 15-20 laps of barbs on limiter i still get 300-350.

There is NO way in hell you got that sort of difference peak vs bp under normal driving standards.

Not a personal attack, just stating what im sure alot of people are thinking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hanaldo, there are 4 reasons this occurred.

-shit batch of fuel which i doubt

- you didnt fill it up as much as you thought

- you didnt reset the odometer for a while

- you were high at the time.

The difference you stated is huge, I dont get this sort of discrepancy if i have a drift practice during the week. I normally get 450, with a drift practice, read 15-20 laps of barbs on limiter i still get 300-350.

There is NO way in hell you got that sort of difference peak vs bp under normal driving standards.

Not a personal attack, just stating what im sure alot of people are thinking.

As i said before, it's very possible i got a shit batch of fuel, but it's never happened with BP which is why i choose that fuel. You can choose to doubt me if you want, doesn't bug me in the slightest what fuel you use. But having actually compared these fuels for myself, those are the results i got and those are the results i base my opinion on.

No offense taken Greg, i was as baffled as you are and i still don't know how to explain it. That is just what happened and since then i have refused to use Peak

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pick a fuel , have car tuned on it and stick to it .

still doesnt save you from bad batches of fuel. i've been using bp98 since i've been doing my own tuning. filled up at bp kalamunda on saturday night and had to pull out 5 degrees of timing everywhere on boost just to stop it pinging badly, was still pinging lighty after that. 5 degrees is a ridculous amount between tanks of the same brand fuel. if it werent so far away i'd be going back and syphoning it back into their tanks

hanaldo, with the standard ecu's in skylines, especially 33s there is no need whatsoever to run anything more than 91. the timing in the standard maps is beyond conservative.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, there are only 2 fuel stations in my area which is shell and caltex... So I would like to ask what fuel is best for my car (1994 R33 GTS-T)

Note: If I really need to get a lil bit further to get fuel better than caltex and shell... I will... So pls give me some suggestion.. THANKS

EDITED: Do skylines have the same size of fuel tank? From what I've been told skylines have 65 litres of tank isnt it? My friend's only fill up somewhere around 45 litres full tank.

Edited by R33 Gts-T Sedan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also prefer to pay a premium for consistency in quality.
Wont ever be consistent in pump fuels
still doesnt save you from bad batches of fuel.

Wow you are on the ball , thanks for the hot tip :happy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EDITED: Do skylines have the same size of fuel tank? From what I've been told skylines have 65 litres of tank isnt it? My friend's only fill up somewhere around 45 litres full tank.

Yeah 65 litre tank for a GTS-T, it's normal to only fill up 45-50 litres when the needle says you're on empty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow does that mean even if the needle is pointing on E we still have 10 litres or more left?

I've changed fuel pumps before but I don't really remember if the fuel pick-up sock is going to be able to suck up the last few litres of fuel in the tank.

And I'm going to assume that 65L is the total volume of the tank? And you wouldn't actually fit 65L of fuel in it because of an air pocket at the top or something. I dunno.

Doesn't really matter. Just try and fill up when you're in between 1/4 and Empty.

I get just over 400kms from about 50 litres of fuel, but it's not a stock car.

Edited by SKYRYAN
Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh yea never thought of the air pocket... Maybe you're right... I can't really know when is my tank empty because my fuel needle keeps moving up and down.. Don't really know what's the problem... Guess I'll just wait till the orange light comes on...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
×
×
  • Create New...