Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The electric boot latch will now "latch", but wont tighten after it initially closes- normally you hear a whirring sound as the motor tightens the hatch but not anymore. It still unlatches using the electric button though and you can hear the sound of it unlatching. The battery was replaced but not sure that has anything to do with it.

Has anyone had the same problem, any suggestions for a solution?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313962-m35-boot-latch-problem/
Share on other sites

might be the boot switch, its somewhere around the latch, i THINK anyway.

does the boot courtesy light stay on or not turn on? that would indicate the switch as a problem.

i take it slamming the boot doesnt help??

It seems that it might be the switch or sensor that tells the motor to take up the tension- the "door open" light on the dash is constantly on, and the boot courtesy light stays on as well as though the boot isn't shut properly. I may end up taking it to an auto electrician to have a look at the switch and sensor, a better option than having water leak into the boot I think.

I haven't given it a really hard slam but a firm push doesn't seem to help, it latches with a gentle push, just wont take up the slack like it used to. The joys of an electric boot latch!

might be the boot switch, its somewhere around the latch, i THINK anyway.

does the boot courtesy light stay on or not turn on? that would indicate the switch as a problem.

i take it slamming the boot doesnt help??

Hey Michael, I spoke to Christof about this today and he mentioned that they have replaced a switch or mechanism on 2 Stageas in the past. If you call our shop tomorrow and ask for Ben or Christof and tell them about the problem, I'm sure they can give you an answer.

Eugene

Thanks, it will latch so it doesn't come open, but the motor doesn't pull the boot tightly shut like it used to. I will give Northshore a call thanks, it is going in to the auto electricians to get look at tomorrow so I will let you know how it goes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...